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ISSUE #31.28 • FOOD & DRINK • CORONATION
[DISH]

The Great Burrito Pageant


We crowned a queen filled with refried beans.

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BY MARK BAUMGARTEN & JENNIFER A. RAPF | mbaumgarten at wweek dot com

[May 18th, 2005] Last year, WW's Cheap Eats Guide crowned Fido's Frankfurters the "King of Condiments" in the cart world. So this year, with our stomachs grumbling and with the hoopla of Rose Festival less than a month away, we set out to find the queen of that spunkiest of streetside food vendors: the burrito cart.

We went out to our six favorite downtown carts, bought chicken burritos (or veggie, when meat wasn't on the menu) and proceeded to objectify them: Using a scale of 1 (blecch) to 5 (¡muy bueno!), we judged them on the courtesy of their presenters/servers, their weight, their appearance and their thrifty value-we even (gasp!) tasted them. How's that for a royal scandal? And from the pile of pintos and rice, we declared a Queen of the Burrito Carts. Grovel, fool!

CongenialityMeasurementsEvening GownTalent CompetitionValueTotal
Chinto's Burritos Southwest 9th Avenue and Washington Street Nary a smile and no condiment list. What is this, Communist Russia? Turnaround time: 3 minutes. (Score: 3) 1 pound, 3 ounces; 6 3/4 inches long, 10 around-a bit small for morbidly obese appetites, while anorexics will be gnawing on this for weeks. (Score: 4) A simple yellow paper wrap in a plastic bag with a lovely rose graphic. (Score: 3) It only takes one bite to get to the chicken and guacamole. Too bad the guac is overpowered by overseasoned chicken. (Score: 2.5) $2.50 - $3.75 (Score: 2) 14.5
Fuego Southwest Park Avenue and Harrison Street Strictly business: You check off the rest of your fixins on a tiny slip of scrap paper. Mmmm...choices. Turnaround: 3 minutes. (Score: 3) 1 pound, 3.8 ounces; 7 1/2 inches long, 9 1/2 inches around. This burrito makes up for its small stature with quality innards. (Score: 4) It dazzles in shiny tinfoil, smartly accessorized with a faux-wicker burrito basket to carry it to consumption. (Score: 4) Black beans, brown rice, tender marinated chicken with your choice of sour cream or nonfat yogurt, housemade salsas and sweet chili sauce! Whew! (Score: 5) $4 - $5.50 (Score: 3) 19
THE WINNER
King Burrito Southwest 5th Avenue and Oak Street The Ken Kesey of the burrito crowd, this old-timer doesn't mind spending all day in a sweaty bus. Turnaround: 5 minutes. (Score: 3) 1 pound, 5.7 ounces; 6 inches long, 10 1/2 inches around-6 inches might seem short, but don't forget about the girth, people. (Score: 4.5) Yellow paper appears to be the look of the season, but King takes a risk with a rustic brown paper bag-which, alas, leads to a soggy bottom. (Score: 2) There's some real substance here. But look out, rice and beans, the Johnny Carson of meat is taking over.... It's dry, get it? And it's dead. Oooh. (Score: 3) $4 - $4.50 (Score: 3) 15.5
Loco Locos Burritos Southwest 5th Avenue and Oak Street Loco Locos' counterman looks a bit dazed and confused. But he did ask what we wanted on our tasty treat. Turnaround: 4 minutes. (Score: 4) 1 pound, 3.4 ounces; 7 inches long, 9 1/2 inches around-for a cart that brags a "Big Burrito," this is a wee lass. False advertising. Points off. (Score: 2) LL sticks with a traditional white paper wrap, but, again, whoever's making those bags with the rose graphic must be sending their kids to Yale. (Score: 2) Here you've got guac, sour cream and tender breast meat, and you can taste all of them. It's an orgy in your mouth...or something like that. (Score: 5) $2.50 - $4.50 (Score: 4) 17
Shelly's Honkin' Huge Burritos Pioneer Courthouse Square, 715 SW Morrison Street Working in the open air instead of a rust bucket makes for a happy and talkative burrito-slinger. Turnaround: 3 minutes. (Score: 4) 1 pound, 11.2 ounces; 9 inches long, 11 inches around-this medium burrito could be mistaken for a small cat wrapped in tinfoil. (Score: 3) As if the shiny wrapper didn't keep this burrito hot enough, the flattering red-checkered serving plate keeps it smokin' sexy. (Score: 4) This burrito is packed with goodies fresh from the garden, and the taste shows. Eighteen different hot sauces keep the meat eater occupied. (Score: 4) $4.50 - $5.50 (Score: 2) 17
Tito's Burritos Southwest 3rd Avenue and Washington Street A menu of 16 different burritos greets the eye, and three minutes after you order it, the burrito greets your mouth. Turnaround: 3 minutes. (Score: 3) 1 pound, 9.9 ounces; 7 1/4 inches long, 10 1/2 inches around-big poundage for its size. We suspect a guac girdle is responsible. (Score: 2) The Tito Burrito is sporting the same dress as Chinto's, but a flaky tortilla loses points. (Score: 2) This place claims "The Best Mexican Food," but three bites before hitting chicken? Faux pas! And was the rice cooked in onion broth? Ick! (Score: 1) $2.75 - $4 (Score: 3.5) 11.5














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