23 Hoyt [NEW]

[October 17th, 2007] 529 NW 23rd Ave., 445-7400. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $$ Expensive.

Just one year ago, the world changed. That’s when Bruce Carey revamped his Northwest 23rd Avenue Italian house Balvo to create 23 Hoyt with his former partner in ’90s crime, Christopher Israel, of Saucebox and Zefiro fame. Overnight the restaurant was the talk of the town. The instant buzz was well-deserved thanks to the fact this reunited team made it their mission to make the cavernous space work not only as a place to enjoy a meal of exceptional quality, but also as a place to meet friends for cool cocktails and a look at the awesome wine list. So, what has a full year wrought for Bruce, Chris and their crew of hand-picked lovelies? Plenty. During the summer it was a global intersection of Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-inspired tastes, including a simple yet elegant grape-leaf-wrapped grilled salmon topped with a Catalan sauce and an ahi tuna tartare with just a hint of preserved lemon. For fall, entrees are heading north (spaetzle with braised rabbit, roasted duckling with red cabbage and sauteed apples) and south (grilled Hawaiian swordfish). Lately, 23 Hoyt has literally turned up its tunes with an increasingly eclectic mix of musicians who tickle the ivories every night after 9 pm. (BB)

Signature Dish: Brown butter and sage butternut-squash gnocchi highlights the best of the season.

Standouts: Grilled perfection courtesy of flatiron steaks, swordfish and salmon. It’s enough to make your mouth water.

Regrets: Service in the bar can be thin when the band kicks in.