Apizza Scholls [NEW]

[October 17th, 2007] 4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-1286. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $$ Moderate.

Don’t misunderstand Apizza Scholls. Yes, this always-packed pizza “parlor” has attitude that’s a skosh on the hoity-toity, “Soup Nazi” side, what with its hard and fast “no takeout” and “no dough, no dice” policies. One can expect this kind of snottiness from a Manhattan institution like Lombardi’s, but not from a Portland joint serving “gourmet” pizza on Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard east of 39th Avenue. But let’s relax: The pizza is actually that good . Apizza Scholls’ use of simple, fresh ingredients—as in, fresh dough made daily, extra-virgin olive oil and generous use of sea salt—and stringent attention to oven temperature make for one magical pie. Even the presentation is thoughtful: Pizzas are served on a traditional pizza stand so as not to cramp anyone’s dining style. If attention to details and a splash of truffle oil make Apizza Scholls’ $20 pies “gourmet,” then so be it. It’s damn good pizza. (LS)

Signature Dish: Apizza’s ’Margo’rita is a spin on the classic Margherita pizza, but with more cheese: fresh whole-milk mozzarella, pecorino and Grana Padano.

Standouts: We recommend the New York White pie. It’s a walk on the wild side—we’re talking five different cheeses with no red sauce—but oh, so tasty.

Regrets: The large, new dining room is connected to the old through what seems to be the kitchen.