Beer Boys

[May 21st, 2008]

The stereotypes are exaggerated, certainly: Not all beer aficionados have full beards, bald pates and ample bellies. But the fellas hanging around Portland’s many brewpubs, trading tidbits about casks and worts and IBUs, do tend to be, well, men. Men who, unlike the rest of us, aren’t content to drink a pint brewed in the same state, or even city. No, these are the true devotees, and they strive to down their draughts as close as humanly possible to the source.

It’s a good time for the brewpub boys. The number of places to sample beer brewed on-site has exploded of late, culminating this spring in the openings of Hopworks Urban Brewery (page 16) and Deschutes Public House (210 NW 11th Ave., 296-4906). Both are massive establishments—16,800 and 10,000 square feet, respectively—with lots of exposed wood, serving good food and extraordinary beer to hundreds of people every night. Deschutes’ Bend headquarters has long been a pilgrimage destination for beer lovers, and the Portland location is a larger, better-decorated version of the original. With Portland-only beers on the way, we expect lines of believers here as well—and at Hopworks.

But we shouldn’t forget the old standards: Widmer’s Gasthaus Pub (929 N Russell St., 281-3333) and MacTarnahan’s Taproom (2730 NW 31st Ave., 228-5269), awkwardly sited in industrial areas on either side of the river, are both very clean, well-lit establishments that cater primarily to true sudsheads but have plenty to offer those more interested in good food and cheerful company.

Less industrial but equally devoted to their craft are the Rogue Ales Public House (1339 NW Flanders St., 222-5910), best known as the place for giddy undergrads to get a yard of beer on their birthdays, and The Mash Tun (2204 NE Alberta St., Suite 101, 548-4491), which is actually a nice place to hang—but again, dudesville.

Even though their products are not our favorite, we would be remiss in leaving out Laurelwood Public House (5115 NE Sandy Blvd., 282-0622) and The Lucky Labrador Brew Pub (915 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 517-4352, and other locations). The first is the city’s best destination for on-site beer fanatics with kids in tow, and the second is the only place we know of where a crew of 40 dog-loving drinkers can show up with no notice and be seated with no problem. Yay, beer!