LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

[October 12th, 2005] ADDING SALT TO THE WOUND

As I very much respect the role of the critic in the world of the arts, music and food, I have never written in response to a review. But regarding the recent piece on Castagna ["Perfectly Bland," WW, Sept. 28, 2005], here goes.

Is it your policy to review a restaurant based on one visit? Your reviewer visited our dining room a single time, approximately five months ago. His judgment is based on a sampling of very few dishes, and there is no mention of service, wine list or dessert.

His entire review is based on what was perceived as a lack of salt. It is generally accepted that the human taste for salt is highly variable and it's been shown in scientific tests that the taste for a given amount of salt is an acquired one, which is why there's salt on our tables. We use salt liberally in the cooking process, to enhance the flavor of the fine ingredients that we have to work with. Some ingredients are delicate and some are gutsy-we season them accordingly. If your reviewer had eaten here on more than one occasion, maybe he would have had a chance to understand that.

If your reviewer's palate is so jaded, with which I am in complete agreement, perhaps some time off in a salt meadow in France? Also, in the best interests of full disclosure, please let your readers know that your reviewer imports and sells sea salt.

Kevin Gibson
Monique Siu
Castagna
Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard

Arts and Culture Editor Kelly Clarke responds: I stand behind Jim Dixon's salty review, but I should have made note of his business connection with the crystal demon. Dixon imports extra-virgin olive oils from Italy and a hand-harvested sea salt called flor de sal from Portugal when he's not at his day job as an engineering technical writer and editor. In order to avoid any conflicts of interest, Dixon does not sell salt or olive oil to restaurants he reviews for WW. Contrary to Gibson and Siu's claims, Dixon made multiple visits to Castagna over a period of weeks this past summer in order to craft his critique. Due to WW's publishing schedule, the review did not run until September. For more restaurant reviews or olive oil and salt info, visit Dixon's website, www.realgoodfood.com.

Speaking of salt, I'd like to nominate Castagna for Best Letter-to-the-Editor Prop: A representative from the restaurant dropped off this 50-pound salt lick addressed to Jim Dixon at the WW office along with its missive two weeks ago.

GOOD FOOD, GOOD NEIGHBORS

I usually agree with Jim Dixon's insights and restaurant reviews.

If Jim had been at my table recently, he would have enjoyed an amazing meal-cauliflower soup, rustic salads of beets and tomatoes, a goulash with white polenta that was tender and fantastic and an incredible plum tart. Everything I ate was prepared and seasoned to perfection. I didn't reach for the salt once.

To top it all off, the entire meal was prepared with items from the Eastbank Farmers Market, our very own neighborhood market connecting neighbors to vendors right here in inner Southeast.

Since they opened on Hawthorne Boulevard, I have been a regular diner at both Castagna and Castagna Cafe. I appreciate what they have brought to my neighborhood, their serene aesthetic, their focus on creating the best food possible prepared with the best local ingredients. They are talented chefs, restaurateurs and great neighbors.

Lindsey McBride
Southeast Cypress Street

STUCK IN BOHEMIA

Were you in my house taking notes for "Portland's New New Economy" [Oct. 5, 2005]? My wife and I moved here from S.F. in 2001 because we wanted the change of lifestyle and pace that Portland offered. Four broke, under- or unemployed years later, and we debate nearly every day whether we need to give up this town that we've learned to love and want to get old in, die in and move somewhere where we can actually earn a living. I came here with five or so years of multimedia background and a BA from UCLA under my belt, and I haven't been able to pay the mortgage without all but selling blood plasma just about every month.

Would L.A. really be all that bad? All my friends are employed and living like adults while we're stuck in a long-protracted state of Bohemia that we never wanted in the first place.

Philip Golden
Northeast Wasco Street

PITCHING A TENT

I'm thinking that with the recent Oregon Supremes' decision on lap dancing we might want to change the state tourism marketing slogan to "Come for the Woods...Stay for the Woodies!" Whaddya think?

Larry McDonald
Northwest Fairfax Terrace

PORTLANDPURAM?

As a native Portlander, I was alarmed by the article on Portland's new migrants ["The New New Economy," WW, Oct. 5, 2005]. The influx of the young and highly educated who seek a spiritual and mystical bond in the Pacific Northwest reminds me of the invasion of the Rajneeshees in the 1980s. Now I know how the citizens of Antelope felt.

Len Stevens
Southwest St. Clair Avenue

CORRECTION The story "Come One, Come All" in last week's paper incorrectly reported the job title of Neel Pender. He is the executive director of the Democratic Party of Oregon. WW regrets the error.