Sellers' Market

[May 3rd, 2006] The Portland Farmers Market ain't just about hunting and food-gathering, it's also about people-watching. Ever since the Saturday market in the Park Blocks kicked off last month, we've been reacquainting ourselves with all the familiar faces, smells and specialties of the more than 150 vendors who make up the market's collective stuff-your-face charm. But what's really the story behind this bucolic lot? As the Wednesday edition of the Portland Farmers Market kicks off today and various citywide markets, from the Eastbank Esplanade to Hillsdale, get ready for their early-summer debut in June, WW set two of our most trusty shoppers on the case, comics journalist Ryan Alexander-Tanner and intern Elianna Bar-El, to find out a bit more about the men and women behind some of our favorite market stalls. The pair stuck close to the specialty food stands (must be all those free samples) and found out that many vendors' stories are as tasty as their wares.

Christy Goldsby - Blue Gardenia Bakers

Christy Goldsby seems like the kind of girl you wish had been your counselor at sleep-away camp: softly casual, poetic, and innately cool. No drama. In fact, the only frills that accompany Goldsby are found atop her dainty lemon-curd tartlets, her assorted French galettes (plump berries cradled by light pastry crust and gently kissed with Saigon cinnamon and cardamom) and of course, her chocolate confections—decadent morsels configured of Scharffen Berger bittersweet chocolate and Pernigotti cocoa, including a signature velvety flourless chocolate gateau. Goldsby, a co-owner of North Mississippi Avenue's Blue Gardenia bakery, is genuinely surprised by the slew of customers lining up to grab a handful (and eyeful) of her baked goods this Saturday morning. She casually quips that she did not bring near enough stuff today. She's right: Each and every one of her cinnamon rolls escaped before 9 am.

See art @ www.wweek.com/media/7494-1.jpg

Pierre-Louis Monteillet - Fromagerie Monteillet

When a woman asks whether Pierre-Louis Monteillet duck eggs have more calories than his chicken eggs, Monteillet is visibly taken aback. After all, he originally hails from the south of France, the land of butter-filled croissants, bloody steaks and cheese for dessert. So, it is only natural that his response be one of complete disregard for calorie intake. Instead he focuses on its attributes, including "rich, creamy texture." "Maybe there are more calories, but that doesn't matter," he says. The skeptical customer succumbs, resolving to buy a dozen duck eggs. Pierre-Louis gives her a knowing nod, tips his debonair rancher's hat and helps his next customer to a thick and creamy wedge of Larzac.

See art @ www.wweek.com/media/7494-2.jpg

Brad Ross - Lady Bug Guy

Apparently ladybugs aren't just for wishing upon. It's hard to believe, but Brad Ross has made a significant living selling these charming insects—in fact, once May and June roll around, his sales will be anywhere from $400 to $700 on any given Saturday at the market. And he makes it very clear that his job is not all about frolicking in the hills and gathering butterflies and ladybugs to sell to the hippie children of Portland. Ladybugs are serious business. Since they are an economically and environmentally sound, all-natural aid to pest control, Portland's Christmas-tree farms, wheat farms, greenhouses and nurseries are all over the little buggers. And Ross is right there to reap the benefits.

See art @ www.wweek.com/media/7494-3.jpg

Dave Dahl - Dave's Killer Bread

With his bulging biceps, strict jawline and wild ponytail, you'd expect Dave Dahl to be sleeping off a hangover at 8 am on any given Saturday morning—not selling his increasingly popular Killer Breads amid a crowd of baby strollers and floppy-hatted grandmas. Dahl doesn't fit the mold of your traditional breadmaker, much less one who prides himself on constantly reformulating his product and attaining his goal of producing 100 percent organic breads. But then again, he didn't decide to become a bread maker by a traditional route. Sure, he grew up in the family business—his father started Nature Bake—but an incessant habit of meth use clouded his mind and kept him hauled up in the slammer for years at a time. He is quite candid about his story, musing that at the end of the day, whatever doesn't kill you only makes you stronger. Maybe it's the extra pinch of Nietzsche that makes his bread so good.

See art @ www.wweek.com/media/7494-4.jpg

Ramune and Paul Arlauskas - Gourmet Spice Blends

Ramune Arlauskas' face radiates excitement as she recounts bits of her culinary training in Thailand. Her mouth carefully forms the appropriate pronunciation of Thai spices—kafir leaves, galangal—as her earthy, thick Lithuanian accent fights to break through. Paul, equally passionate about his sweet 'Mona,' never takes his smiling eyes off his wife of 30 years. This being their second year at the market, they feel that they are still the new kids on the block, but as Ramune prepares her signature recipes and Paul offers samples of her veggie stew, they already look like pros.

See art @ www.wweek.com/media/7494-5.jpg

Dennis and Cindy Mason - Country Pride Farm

Dennis Mason lets customers sample various cheese flavors while his wife, Cindy, a one-woman assembly line, is glued to a side table, lightly speckling Wheat Thins with an assortment of creamy, fresh cheeses. They are the newest goat-cheesers at the Portland market. Cindy is retired, and Dennis still holds a "normal" job as a fire chief for Clark County. When asked how they feel about coming from the Vancouver Market, where they were the only cheese providers, to Portland, where there are seven, Dennis leaves no room for doubt that he's a man that stands by his cheese. And who's gonna challenge that?

See art @ www.wweek.com/media/7494-6.jpg