Hammy's

[January 10th, 2007] Sick of soaking up that last unnecessary cocktail with Plaid Pantry nachos? Well, meet your new friend Hammy. Yes, he sounds delightful, not like a late-night indulgence you'll regret in the morning. But, contrary to the piggy connotations, Hammy's isn't a sub-sandwich shop or barbecue pit. It's the beer drinker's Messiah—a pizzeria that delivers till 4 am.

Having bartended at the Night Light Lounge on Southeast Clinton Street, Hammy's part-owner Ashley Berry was aware of Portland's drunk-dial pizza void. So when a storefront became available next door, Berry, along her husband, Adam Fuderer, and their longtime pal Rusty Johnson—who has also slung drinks around town—seized the opportunity to save the city from last-call hunger pangs. "Bar time is our bread and butter," Berry says, adding that Hammy's even delivers across the river after midnight. (During lunch and dinner, drivers go as far west as the Willamette and as far east as Southeast 77th.)

With a lethargic and often intoxicated customer base (they only offer carry-out and delivery), Hammy's could easily sacrifice quality product for speed and affordability. But it doesn't. Crusts are made from scratch, the produce is organic and bought locally, and Berry's tangy marinara sauce is the product of her personal experimentation. The breakfast pizza—with bacon, eggs and roasted potatoes—satisfies omelet cravings, obviating a wait in line at the Hotcake House. Whole garlic cloves adorn the veggie pie, while a smorgasbord of sliced, grilled and ground meats are piled high upon the aptly titled Heart Attack. Personal pies (much bigger than the Pizza Hut equivalent) and calzones are also available for $7 (plus a $1-$2 delivery charge).

Although the modest store size doesn't allow for patrons to dine in (which is also why they also don't offer pizza by the slice), the three—all around their early 30s—hope to eventually expand. But becoming business partners isn't the only recent commitment made within the group. In November, Berry and Fuderer blessed their new pizzeria by holding their wedding ceremony at Hammy's. "It's definitely been a season of change," Berry says. Good. We lazy Portlanders needed it.