Gentrification Sensation

[February 7th, 2007] When self-righteous bohemians rail against gentrification—despite being a major watershed for yuppie invasions themselves—I just want to slap them. I can see where the person was coming from who graffitied "gentrification this way" on the side of the newly opened Francis (see "Trouble in Wonderland," wweek.com, Nov. 30, 2006). The place has no shame, earnestly creating a high-end dining experience in what was once a rough neighborhood. But c'mon, upscale restaurants like Ciao Vito have already claimed Alberta addresses; what kind of breakfast joint did 'hood residents expect next? A Denny's?

Politics aside, Francis is a unique destination for indulgent, classic meals with a couple of surprising twists. What sets it apart are its modern-traditional design mix and chef Christopher Pierce's upscale interpretations of American standards with just enough personality.

Endless windows give the modern building a prairie-style feeling, bright despite its small size. Old-fashioned tableware and a carved-wood banquette on which mouthwatering pies proudly rest contrast with concrete tables and West Elm-style upholstered chairs.

Many items are served à la carte, ensuring a customizable meal. Pierce's Benedict special ($12)—often a hot-smoked salmon Benedict with pear-sage hollandaise—is a breakfast menu standout. The sweet, creamy, mildly earthy sauce perfectly complements the salty hunks of salmon. Round it out with hash browns or skillet-fried grits, $2 each (caramelized onions, cheese and sausage gravy optional), or a plate of seasonal fruit ($4). The word "seasonal" is applied liberally here; I suppose strawberries and honeydew are always in season somewhere, if not in Portland.

The basic lunch menu of salads and sandwiches elevates staples with tweaks that go a long way: The beets in a beets and greens salad ($7.50) are smoked as well as roasted for an excellent depth of flavor, the meatloaf sandwich ($7.50) is inlaid with bacon, and sandwiches are served with housemade potato and sweet-potato chips (so much better than the ubiquitous Kettle Chips) and a chunky tomato-garlic ketchup.

A three-bean burger ($7) rides in style on a surprisingly moist egg-and-butter roll. Burger buns are almost always utilitarian, but this one, baked in-house, is a meaningful part of the overall sandwich.

Save room for Francis' rotating cake ($4) selection. On one visit it was a dense, coarse-crumbed layer cake with a smooth, salty chocolate buttercream frosting.

Francis is another mark of a changing neighborhood, but it's also really good spot for enjoying a classy brunch or family meal that keeps kicking up the style and culinary standards of Alberta Street.