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ISSUE #34.24 • FOOD & DRINK •
[DISH]

East Burn


REVIEW

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BY BEN WATERHOUSE | 503-243-2122

[April 23rd, 2008]

We’ve got to admit it—the opening of Mike and Matt Bender’s bar/restaurant/gallery/venue last winter in the space formerly filled by Nocturnal didn’t exactly fill us with glee. The hokey name, weird logo and all-in-one business plan sounded like a disaster waiting to happen.

We were wrong. It turns out East Burn is a great bar (more on that in next week’s WW) and a pretty decent, pleasant restaurant. The wide upstairs dining room is scattered with booths and decorated with price-tagged art. Fans of the old club will recognize the space, but it definitely has an identity of its own.

Prices on the “simple European” menu (read: “Brooklyn bistro”) have come down since December, and it presents a nice range of entrees: the $23 strip steak is still there, along with a hearty and warming buffalo paprikash with spaetzle and spinach ($13). Appetizers and salads are generous to a fault; the pear and spinach salad could feed two, and an excellent plate of figs, romano and sopressata at a recent visit was as big as an entree.













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But for all the fennel pollen, fontina and local-sustainable whatnot, we bet most East Burn customers will go for the burgers and sandwiches ($7-$9)—and the Trinity Fries, a pile of shoestring russet and sweet-potato fries topped with shavings of fried leek. This is the kind of side dish that breeds compulsions and is sure to keep the crowds coming in the door.

EAT IT: East Burn, 1800 E Burnside St., 236-2876. Lunch, dinner and late-night, 11 am-2 am daily. $$.

 

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