The Liberty Glass

[July 9th, 2008]

DOG DAYS: Prime porch-settin’ weather has returned to Portland, and on nights when you can’t find a house party, The Liberty Glass (938 N Cook St., 517-9931) offers an inviting, if snug, alternative. The two-story pink house, perched at the curve where chic Mississippi Avenue plunges into the industrial harbor, was the original location for Lovely Hula Hands and most recently housed a cocktail joint called the Purple Tooth; its latest tenant opened in May, just in time to serve Roots IPA ($4 a pint) on the front stoop. On a recent Sunday evening, the slender porch was occupied by half a dozen upscale hippies smoking American Spirits and a plump, three-legged hound dog named Otis lolling by the door, generously offering his belly to potential scratchers. Inside, the place looks like it’s been redecorated by a minimalist gold prospector: Pairs of antlers dot the walls, while water is served in Mason jars and blue tin mugs. But the real treasure is a gooey, pan-seared loaf of Over the Rainbow mac ’n’ cheese (steep at $11, with salad and a cheddar biscuit, but worth it for the Cajun flour batter). Specialty drinks include the unexpectedly palatable Ghetto-Gria ($5), which could easily have been invented by enterprising house-party guests: It’s a pint glass filled with Coca-Cola and red wine.