Blue Plate Navigator: happy (hour) meals | cartesian geography search listing alphabetically by restaurant name: a | b | c | d | e | f | g | h | i | j | k | l | m | n | p | r | s | t ABHIRUCHI The ambience here is divey: There's a dropped ceiling with lights set behind plastic green panels, polyester flowers, bedraggled indoor-outdoor carpeting and feeble speakers emitting Indian show tunes. But Abhiruchi covers India north to south, notching up the spices as the cuisine nears the equator. Come for dinner: a full menu of dosas, pakoras, samosas, curries, tandooris, masalas and spiced rice biriyanis.Sizzling tandoori items make a dramatic tableside presentation, but be careful--you could fill up on a platter-sized rava dosa dipped in spicy puréed lentils before it even arrives.Work your way around the menu, and always order the full tali (dinner), which includes cool yogurt salad, spicy dahl, Indian potato salad, rice and naan (flat bread). The accompanying chutneys combine sweet, savory, spicy and cool flavors, just like you'd get in New Delhi or Bombay. The ample Indian lunch buffet is a deal, but arrive early before the food gets tired. (JTW) 3815 SW MURRAY BLVD., BEAVERTON, 671-0432. 11:30 AM-2:30 PM, 5-9:30 PM DAILY. ABYSSINIA Every year in these pages we note that Abyssinia, an unassuming place housed in a former video store on Northeast Broadway, seems awfully quiet, but every year we're reassured to find that it's still around. Why the place isn't full all the time is a mystery. Certainly people have had plenty of time to get acquainted with the flavors and spiciness of Ethiopian cuisine and to get used to the custom of scooping it up with spongy injera bread. If you haven't, this may be the place to give it a try; the heat level here is a little less daunting than at other Ethiopian restaurants, perhaps as a concession to the American palate. The menu leans toward meaty dishes such as kai sega wott, a spicy stewed beef, and alicha sega wott, a milder version that's still deeply flavorful. There are other savory concoctions of stewed and marinated meats, as well as a few delicious vegetarian dishes of lentils, split peas and potatoes. If you go with a friend and order the two combination plates, you can sample over half the menu. (JMcQ) 801 NE BROADWAY, 281-1975. 11:30 AM-2:30 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 5-10 PM DAILY. ACCUARDI'S OLD TOWN PIZZA COMPANY Accuardi's Old Town is very old-school. A cross between a Victorian ice cream parlor and a Western saloon, Old Town pleases both families and after-work revelers.The menu reads "The better the bread, the better the pizza!" and that's exactly what serves as the foundation of Old Town's pies. It looks like pizza crust but tastes like bread. In the spirit of DIY, customers order their own creations (apart from four house specials, all 'zas are custom-made). Unlike hybrid pizza joints, Old Town doesn't have chicken fingers or shrimp Caesar salad on its menu; lasagna and linguine are the only additions to the signature pies. Friday evenings are a good time to go if you're looking for a quick, early meal--Old Town doesn't start hopping until about 8:30 pm. (CM) 226 NW DAVIS ST., 222-9999. 11:30 AM-11 PM SUNDAYS-THURSDAYS; 11:30 AM-MIDNIGHT FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS. ACROPOLIS It's an endless parade of meat at the Acropolis, and I'm not talking about the dancers. This is carnivore headquarters, and anyone squeamish about beef would do best to stay away. The meaty burgers start at a whopping full pound and swell up to huge--the Acropolis Colossal Burger is almost dangerous. A 16-ounce sirloin steak with mushrooms and potato is only $8. If your arteries still aren't begging for mercy, burst your aorta with a 10--count 'em, 10--egg omelette for a mere $5. There is a salad bar on the premises, but one doesn't succumb to the Acropolis' call for food and flesh out of a desire to stay healthy. Give in to your animal side. (JG) 8325 SE MCLOUGHLIN BLVD., 231-9611. 11:30 AM-2:30 AM DAILY. $2 COVER TUESDAYS-THURSDAYS, $3 FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS. AMERICAN DREAM PIZZA American Dream Pizza is truly a reverie for finicky pizza-lovers--take it from someone who doesn't like tomato sauce. True, "white" pizza isn't hard to procure these days, but try getting it by the slice.For prices starting at $1.75, American Dream offers slices roughly the size of frisbees topped with homemade tomato or pesto sauce (or just a little olive oil and garlic).Mini to large pies ranging from $3.95 to $20 are similarly outsized. Many 'zas are named for celebrities who are safely dead and thus unable to quibble over their curious namesakes. (Did Edward Abbey ever eat pesto? Was Otis Redding a vegetarian?) The special pizzas are positively loaded with toppings: Consider the W.C. Fields, an extravaganza of beef, mushrooms, bacon, olives and onions. It's best to stick with personalized slices for two reasons: cost and crust. On slices, the crust is a beautiful, twisted affair with a hint of honey; full pizzas, on the other hand, have an entirely different base that's dry and rather bland. (CM) 4620 NE GLISAN ST., 230-0699. 11 AM-10 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-11 PM FRIDAY, 11 AM-10 PM SATURDAY, 2-10 PM SUNDAY. ANNE HUGHES KITCHEN TABLE CAFE If you're tired, hungry, broke, lonely, sick of the rain and coddling a case of the blues, stay away from Anne Hughes--because brother, once your sorry ass crosses the doorway, you'll be cheered up in spite of yourself. Yellow is such an unlikely color in Portland, but here it's splashed about with wild abandon. And it works: The warmth of the walls is matched only by the legendary warmth of the owner, Ms. Hughes herself. The food is as nice as the environment--basics with a flair. The small menu changes daily, and sandwiches are a very reasonable $4. On a recent visit I found a choice of ham and Swiss, smoked turkey on focaccia, or mixed cheese with the ever-popular pesto mayonnaise. Soup with bread starts at $4.75; a recent chicken bouillabaisse was spicy and delicious. (PW) 400 SE 12TH AVE., 230-6977. 7 AM-4 PM MONDAYS-FRIDAYS. BEATERVILLE CAFE This working-class North Portland neighborhood has yet to be completely gentrified, and there are plenty of beaters parked in front of the modest bungalows. More than a few are old enough to have contributed some loose chrome to the collection of radiator grills and hubcaps that adorn Beaterville's walls. For less than than the price of a '74 Dart wheel cover, you can eat like you're driving a much more stylin' ride. Breakfasts are built around frittata-style omelettes, from the doomed-but-visionary Edsel (spuds with bell pepper and cheddar) to the nearly forgotten road king DeSoto (with cheddar, spinach, tomatoes, garlic and bacon). The eggless Spudebaker scrambles red potatoes with mushrooms, peppers, onion, tomato, spinach and your choice of feta, cheddar or Swiss. Lunch offers a variety of sandwiches, some big salads and a burger on whole-wheat focaccia. This is good, solid diner fare upgraded with decent bread, fresh vegetables, leaf-lettuce salads and extra care in the kitchen. (JD) 2201 N KILLINGSWORTH ST., 735-4652. 8 AM-3 PM MONDAYS-FRIDAYS, 8 AM-2 PM SATURDAYS, 9 AM-2 PM SUNDAYS. Kelley Hamby BEAU THAI The decor alone qualifies Beau Thai as the best low-rent Thai outpost in Portland. In lieu of tacky red-and-gold dragons and green vinyl booths are soothing fountains and powder-blue accents.The cuisine is equally well put together. No matter what you order, you really can't go wrong: Standards such as salad rolls and pad Thai are well above average, and unfamiliar-sounding dishes can prove outstanding. Take, for example, the kai yud sai khao poo. It's a generous heap of crab and shrimp fried with rice, eggs, chili and onion, all of which is cloaked with an omelette-like dome of fried egg. At $9.95, this fried rice spectacular could easily feed three people. For the money, the ideal appetizer for a hungry party is mee grob ($4.95), crunchy noodles with 10 times the crackle of Rice Krispies, even when doused with peanut sauce. The dinner menu sports 101 items including curries and loads of vegetarian choices; there are 18 lunch specials, all served with soup or salad for $5.95. (CM) 730 NW 21ST AVE., 223-2182. 11 AM-2:30 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 4-10 PM SATURDAY, NOON-10 PM SUNDAY. BERBATI'S PAN CAFE Everyone knows about Berbati's, the club, which hosts rock shows, regular fetish nights and stand-up comedy performances as part of its full schedule of entertainment.What many people may not realize is that the cafe you walk through to get to the club has some of the best food for the money in all of downtown.A cluster of tables sits below a large lamp blooming with plastic grapes in this modestly sized dining room. Several stools line the bar, affording a close look at the kitchen, where cute boys and girls dressed in preppy grunge (their grandparents' Izods) prepare food from a Mediterranean-heavy menu. The offerings also include cheeseburgers, Gardenburgers and sandwiches, all for less than $6 each. The Greek salad ($3.75) is a tangy, fresh take on the classic starter. The grilled lamb kabob ($5) is marinated zestfully in lemon, garlic and olive oil and served with tzatziki. Asian-influenced pork marinated in ginger, garlic, soy and sherry ($6) shows off the menu's range. One simple dish here is worth the trip alone: the salad of mixed greens, toasted walnuts, Danish blue cheese and port vinaigrette ($4). Finish your meal with Turkish coffee--strong and sweet, it'll give you the get-up-and-go to hit the club after dinner. (MM) 10 SW 3RD AVE., 248-4579. 11:30 AM-2 AM MONDAYS-FRIDAYS, 5 PM-2 AM SATURDAYS-SUNDAYS. BLIND ONION PIZZA AND PUB Connoisseurs of crust take note: Blind Onion gets it right.The sauce is pretty good, but the gorgeous twist of dough, richly basted and baked to a golden brown, could win awards. Besides ordering pizza, a great way to experience this delight is by indulging in the garlic chips appetizer--little hunks of crispy crust smothered with garlic and mozzarella. Blind Onion's made-to-order pies come in three sizes (beware--the 8-inch is smaller than you might think) with your choice of house red, pesto alfredo, garlic olive oil or--good heavens--barbecue sauce. The Onion's peculiar approach to salad, however, gets mixed results. Chop salads (house, chicken, Italian, Greek or gobbler) deliver their contents in tidy rows, an anti-tossed arrangement that's difficult to dress. Another word of warning: go easy on the toppings. Merely the sight of the Hawaiian 'za (with Canadian bacon, pineapple and Bermuda onions) is enough to clog your arteries. This muralized little nook of a pub also offers a groovy happy hour (domestic pints for $1.50, microbrews $2) and other bonuses such as $1.99 appetizers after 9 pm and free anchovies on Tuesday nights. (CM) 3345 NE BROADWAY, 284-2825; 2900 B EAST MILL PLAIN BLVD., VANCOUVER, WASH., (360) 750-7490. 11 AM-MIDNIGHT MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-1 AM FRIDAY-SATURDAY, 11 AM-11 PM SUNDAY. CACTUS JACK'S The next time you're in Cactus Jack's out-of-the-way neighborhood, stop in for some Tex-Mex à la Portland. As a culinary genre, Tex-Mex might finally be perfected here, in conjunction with video poker, well-positioned ceiling televisions and the evidence of wild Saturday nights. In addition to conceptual ingenuity, Cactus Jack's offers a tavern and an extensive menu of very American to classic Mexican dishes. Jack has woven his philosophy into the menu's text ("Cactus Jack loves Cabo, it's big fun and they don't tell you NO!"). Appetizers and the all-day breakfast are the cheapest way to go here. Get a bread bowl of three-meat Texas Chili or the ever-popular breakfast cheeseburger (which comes with a fried egg). The veggie nachos, a heaping pile of chips with black and pinto beans, are steeped in cheese, tomatoes, lettuce and onions. Mexican Candy, the 35-cent fried jalapeños sprinkled with salt and lime, are the sweetest deal going. (KM) 4342 SW BEAVERTON-HILLSDALE HIGHWAY, 977-2161. 11 AM-MIDNIGHT SUNDAYS-THURSDAYS. 11 AM-1 AM FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS. CAFE LENA You'd be a fool to stick to Saturday breakfasts or appetizers during Thursday night poetry readings at Cafe Lena. Dinners are a dream, and both the food and crowd are authentic. No tired tofu or hippie dishes here--Lena serves up food fit for a revolutionary.Take the Jean-Paul Angst on challah, for example, an open-faced sandwich of grilled chicken breast with baked brie, roma tomatoes and basil. Or consider the delicious Vinnie's Pesto Vino, fettuccine with an excellent, subtle pesto and Portland's tastiest sun-dried tomatoes. The servings are generous, so if you're a truly starving artist you can forgo the salads and soup and keep it cheap. If you can swing it, though, get a basket of fresh baked bread and butter for $2. There is an extensive wine list, but order carefully; a merlot recently recommended was too dry and didn't hold up to the full flavors of the dinner. Cafe Lena also has a new late-night weekend menu. It's served until 1 am, and it's worth checking out. (PW) 2239 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 238-7087. 8 AM-MIDNIGHT TUESDAYS, 8 AM-11 PM WEDNESDAYS-THURSDAYS, 8 AM-1 AM FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS, 8 AM-3 PM SUNDAYS. CLOSED MONDAYS. CAFE MARX To step into the boxy Cafe Marx is to have a taste of life in an aquarium. Fish are everywhere--painted ones on the door, paper ones dangling, porcelain ones on the shelves, and salt and pepper shaker fishies on the tables. Though it has halibut and chips on the menu, as well as pot roast, meatloaf, burgers and sandwiches (each for under $7), Cafe Marx is mainly a breakfast spot. That's when it shines, serving food that in no way resembles the flaky bits one sprinkles into a watery tank. A thick wedge of chicken-fried steak comes with eggs, toast and fried red taters. Homemade bread is transformed into a hefty plate of French toast. Hungry early risers can get traditionally prepared breakfast staples such as biscuits and gravy, eggs, bacon and potatoes.Despite the aquatic decor, there is nothing fishy about Cafe Marx, where good food is presented by a staff so accommodating they must be controlling the means of production.(MM) 2251 N INTERSTATE AVE., 284-5629. 6:30 AM-2:30 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 8-11:30 AM SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY.   Kelley Hamby CAMPBELL'S BAR-B-Q Your head says no, your belly says yes. Stop thinking about calorie-to-fat ratios and head immediately to Campbell's for the greatest Southern 'cue in town. Sure, barbecue fare can encourage heart attacks if you eat it every day, but who can argue against the benefits of Campbell's tender pork ribs, slathered in smoky brown-sugar sauce, on your spirit? Be sure not to eat for a few hours before you go to this homey haunt--the portions are what's anachronistically referred to as "man-sized." Luscious brisket, beef and pork ribs, smoked turkey, chicken and link sausages come with your choice of four different sauces. Meals are served with either homemade cornbread or wonderfully puffy dinner rolls and a choice of two sides--pick the yummy, eggy potato salad and flavor-packed greens. Now, take a deep breath, find the last trace of hunger in your soul and select one of Campbell's tiny individually baked pies--the dense sweet potato is divine. (CBB) 8701 SE POWELL BLVD., 777-9795. 11 AM-2 PM AND 5-9 PM TUESDAYS-FRIDAYS, 11 AM-9 PM SATURDAYS. CLOSED SUNDAYS-MONDAYS.     CANNON'S RIB EXPRESS There's barely enough room for three people to stand at the counter in this tiny rib joint, but that doesn't stop a line from forming around dinner time. Smoke pours from the 55-gallon drums out front, and you can taste it in the meaty pork and beef ribs. The best bet for a solitary diner on a budget is the $4.50 chopped pork sandwich--there's plenty of tender meat inside the oversized bun, but eat quickly before the sauce soaks completely through it.A crowd of carnivores should choose the bucket o' rib tips, enough to feed three or four for only $12.99.Don't forget a side of greens, a tangy blend of mustard and turnip cooked with smoked turkey. (JD) 3328 NE KILLINGSWORTH ST., 288-3836. 11 AM-8 PM MONDAYS-TUESDAYS, 11 AM-1 PM AND 4-8 PM WEDNESDAYS, 11 AM-8 PM THURSDAYS, 11 AM-9 PM FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS, 1-7 PM SUNDAYS. CHEZ JOSÉ There's nothing wrong with good, inauthentic Mexican food--and there's such an abundance of it in the Pacific Northwest that, like Tex-Mex, it's become a cuisine in itself. What could be called Pac-Mex combines fresh Northwest ingredients served up Mexican-style without a lot of fire. Good examples can be had for reasonable prices at Chez Jose on Northeast Broadway. Awaiting diners here are dishes such as squash enchiladas with peanut sauce, Mexi-garden burgers and prawns with honey sauce. The burrito and enchilada plates are fresh-tasting, the portions are huge and the accompanying homemade salsas come either creamy and mild or in a thinner, spicier form. Equally impressive is the guacamole, bursting with the flavor of very fresh avocados. One of the highlights of the menu is a chicken enchilada that combines cream and lime in a light, delicious sauce.This and other fine dishes make Chez José a popular place among diners of all ages, even the very young--On a Saturday evening, the place is more kidrific than Chuck E. Cheese on free T-shirt night.(FF) 2200 NE BROADWAY, 280-9888. 11:30 AM-11 PM MONDAYS-SATURDAYS, 4-9 PM SUNDAYS. CHEZ WHAT? One of the pioneers of the Alberta Street renaissance, Chez What? moved last summer into new digs down the street, a bright and airy storefront with big windows. The interior is equal parts Pee Wee's Playhouse and thrift-store kitsch, with poodle-themed items and a mosaic of plastic insects.Breakfasts lean heavily on hearty egg-and-potato combos. Gigi's Eggs are scrambled with red onion, garlic, mushrooms, zucchini, broccoli, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, feta and scallions. The Southwest Spuds are topped with onion, mild and hot chilies, pepper jack and cheddar cheeses, scallions, sour cream and a pair of eggs. Lunch and dinner choices are equally filling. Chili Potachos are seasoned french fries smothered with the house chili--made with turkey and three kinds of beans--and topped with pepper jack, cheddar, green onions, tomatoes, sour cream and salsa. Burgers, both beef and veggie, can be enhanced with the "narly" mix of grilled onions, garlic, mushroom, peppers and jalapeños. Save room for dessert--the changing menu includes candy-bar-based concoctions and a really good caramel-apple pie. (JD) 2203 NE ALBERTA ST., 281-1717. 8 AM-9 PM MONDAYS-SATURDAYS, 9 AM-3 PM SUNDAYS. CINDY'S HELVETIA CAFE Home fries are a crucial test of any joint that specializes in breakfasts.The good news for Pearl District diners is that the only significant difference between Cindy's and Shakers--which formerly occupied this spot--is that the chef has ratcheted up the spud quality to a truly epic level.The menu, staff and decor (except for the legendary shaker collection) are intact. Fluffy omelettes, a rarity in this scramble-lovin' town, and imaginative pancakes--try the blue corn variety--mark Cindy's as a serious morning-after choice, but it's the peppery, sweetish marinade on the potatoes that proves the chef's mettle. Other reasons to haul your sleep-deprived carcass to this bacon-lovers' mecca include pint glasses of freshly squeezed grapefruit juice and big milkshakes full of enough ice cream to cure any depression. There's a full lunch menu as well, highlighted by a grilled tuna sandwich that boasts a thick plank of tuna, mercifully free of breading. Under new ownership, the lunch menu has been extended to 9 pm, providing one of the Pearl's few budget dining options in the evening. (NJ) 1212 NW GLISAN ST., 221-0011. 7 AM-9 PM TUESDAYS-SATURDAYS. CRAZY CHEF SATO Out of every 10 people, explains the cover of Sato's menu, maybe eight are normal, one is smart and one is crazy. Sato reasons that he's not normal and can't call himself smart, so what does that leave? The crazy chef seems to have mellowed a bit since the days when his restaurant was located in the Southeast industrial area near Reed College--a manic aura seemed to surround the place then--but the menu remains the same: classic Japanese-American diner fare. Fittingly, he now does business in one of those aging A-frames that used to house burger joints.Sato is famous for his teriyaki sauce, which, unlike the usual heavy, smoky versions, has both interesting flavors and subtlety.You can buy it in bottles at the restaurant. The menu offers donburi (rice bowls), ramen, yakisoba and the like, the Japanese equivalent of burgers and BLTs. (Sato also makes burgers for you less adventurous types.) There's also good gyoza, yakiniku and teriyaki (chicken and salmon), but you may want to request steamed rice; otherwise you'll get fried rice, which can make Sato's a little too much like an authentic greasy-spoon experience. (JMcQ) 12720 SW WALKER ROAD, BEAVERTON, 643-8932. 11 AM-8:30 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY. CZABA'S BAR-B-QUE To anybody who grew up in barbecue country (i.e., anywhere but here), equipment tells a lot about the quality of the chow. In front of Czaba's there's usually a 55-gallon drum smoking away on the sidewalk, converting pedestrian meat and ribs into culinary artwork. Inside,Michael Brown--known to his friends as "Czaba" because his generously proportioned head resembles a casaba melon--turns out some of the best barbecue in town.The menu is extensive, the choices difficult. A litmus test of any 'cue joint is the chopped pork sandwich accompanied by all the classic sides (at $1.25 each, why not order 'em all?). A vinegary, piquant sauce infuses the pork, instead of simply laying on top of it, as is frequently the case at other joints. Czaba's collard greens are wickedly bitter, the potato salad fresh and the baked beans spicy and jammed with red pepper and celery instead of swimming in sugar. The pecan pie could use a few more nuts, but overall, Czaba's rules. (NJ) 5907 N LOMBARD ST., 240-0615. 11:30 AM-9 PM TUESDAYS-SATURDAYS. CLOSED SUNDAYS-MONDAYS. DELTA CAFE It may be so damp and chilly this time of year that you can't even dream of the South, but eating at the Delta Cafe is the next best thing to being there. There's often a wait, but it's well worth it. No matter how much of an appetite you work up waiting, you sure won't be leaving this place hungry. The portions are huge: entrees such as blackened catfish, fried chicken or red beans and rice with andouille sausage, already substantial, come with two sides and a choice of bread. (Few people can ever get past the cornbread on this list--once you know it's an option, why would you choose anything else?) The best deal going may be the Southern Sampler: Three sides and choice of bread for $6. The list of sides includes such Southern comforts as collard greens, mashed turnips and carrots, black-eyed peas and mashed potatoes with chicken gravy. Wash it all down with a 40-ounce Pabst Blue Ribbon ($3), served on ice in a metal bucket, or a Lynchburg Lemonade, made with Jack Daniels. Lawd have mercy--after supper at the Delta, y'all are gonna sleep real well. (MH) 4607 SE WOODSTOCK BLVD., 771-3101. 5 PM-10 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, NOON-10 PM SATURDAY, NOON-9 PM SUNDAY. DORIS' CAFE The cafe's basic blue-and-white checkered interior hints at its cuisine: basic and familiar. The food is traditional Southern, right down to green beans with salty-sweet, fresh-from-the-can flavor.Cornbread muffins and pound cake are mercilessly buttery, and the barbecued half-chicken bursts with moist breast meat that begs to be devoured.Catfish may be considered a poor man's swamp feeder, especially in Doris' anti-gourmet fried version, but the white flesh is so pure and flaky that you'll forget it's been dipped in oil. Other delicacies not commonly found this far north include ox tails, rib tips and hush puppies. The list of side dishes incorporates all your favorites: black-eyed peas, yams, macaroni salad, corn and okra, cabbage and mashed potatoes. There's a full bar, but have a sugary strawberry Welches and pretend you're on a picnic. Prompt service insures that you'll never want for a refill. (CM) DORIS' CAFE, 325 NE RUSSELL ST., 287-9249. 11 AM-9 PM SUNDAYS-THURSDAYS, 11 AM-10 PM FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS. DOTS CAFE The epicenter of collegiate cool, Dots is the place to scratch your itch for decorative kitsch and observe trendus hipstera in its natural environment.Like the thrift-score decor, the menu at Dots hasn't changed over time; simple burgers, sandwiches and Mexican food keep the kids coming around, so why change it? Nurse your hangover in this shadowy den with a $1.25 Rainier pounder, and when your stomach is ready for food, stick to the classic bacon cheeseburger or, for the more organic-loving types, the Vegan Vavoom, which features a pita and falafel with spicy tofu sauce for $4. A black-bean burrito is another popular option, but stay away from the heavy-handed pollo platter--excessive heat fails to disguise its essential blandness. (JG) 2521 SE CLINTON ST., 235-0203. 11 AM-1:30 AM DAILY. DU'S GRILL In a modest, brightly lit and sparsely decorated little box on Northeast Sandy Boulevard, Du's claims to make "the best grilled teriyaki in town." That may not be far off-base--it's certainly tastier and more substantial than the anemic, oversauced fragments of skewered flesh that commonly pass for a meal downtown. Chicken, beef and pork dominate the menu, with only a tofu bowl and yakisoba for the carnivorously challenged. Side orders include a salad and kim chee (teriyaki's origins notwithstanding, Du's owners are Korean), but otherwise you won't find vegetable matter cluttering up your meal.The meat is succulent and amply sauced, and the rice is sticky and fluffy, so what more could you want?How about some of the friendliest, most solicitous service in town? Yup, you'll find that here, too. (JMcQ) 5365 NE SANDY BLVD., 284-1773. 11 AM-9 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY. EL GRILLO One of the most heartening restaurant trends in Portland of late is the proliferation of taquerias, the authentic Mexican fast-food joints that, unlike their counterparts in El Norte, serve palatable food in a non-corporate atmosphere. If this were a just world, there would be plenty of these places downtown, especially considering the relative paucity of interesting, low-priced lunch spots. As it is, El Grillo is one of only two, and it's the only one open late and daily. The menu here is made up of typical, tasty taqueria fare: tacos, burritos, tortas, quesadillas and the like.You can have a satisfying lunch or dinner for well under five bucks and a snack for mere pennies.The hard-shell tacos rival Taco Bell's in price, and they're far better--plus, you don't have to yell into a microphone from your car to order them. You can get food to go, but the old lunch counter is a laid-back place to hang out, and a good place to chill late at night after a show. (JMcQ) 703 SW ANKENY ST., 241-0462. 10 AM-MIDNIGHT DAILY. EL SALVADOR Diners will immediately recognize much of El Salvador's typical Mexican fare--guacamole, nachos, tostadas. What will likely have a less familiar ring are dishes that exemplify the cuisine of El Salvador, such as steak encebollado (steak with onions) and pork and cheese pupusas. Yuca (also known as cassava) is similar in flavor to potato but lighter in texture and slightly sweeter. This staple of the Central American diet is featured as a side at El Salvador. Unadorned, it does a great balancing act with the savory, delicious fried pork. Mexican plates, such as the wonderful shrimp burrito, come topped with a warm spread of slightly lemony sour cream, wedges of avocado, lemon slices and fresh tomato.Whichever region your appetite heads for when it goes south of the border, you'll partake of some very scrumptious food here.You'll also enjoy the look of the restaurant: Turquoise booths and a cloud-covered ceiling create a happy atmosphere. Once you find it, you'll want to go back. (FF) 5919 SE FOSTER ROAD, 775-7501. 11:30 AM-9:30 PM TUESDAYS-SUNDAYS. CLOSED MONDAYS. THE EMPIRE ROOM The Empire Room is surely one of Portland's most unique and cozy night spots. With intimate pools of candlelight, vintage tableware and wrought-iron railings, it feels as though it's been open for decades, even though it's been at its new location for less than a year. Nicely peppered with unique touches, the light menu is as wide-ranging and carefully conceived as the room itself. Portions are extremely generous--often enough for two--and everything is tastefully garnished and visually rewarding. Try the abundant cheese and fruit plate, or the delicious lox plate with cream cheese, red onion, capers and dill. There's an admirable selection of beverages, from French-press coffee to root-beer floats, but the Empire is especially strong in not-so-soft drinks. Reasonably priced and well-chosen wines from Spain, Portugal and Southern France are available by the glass, as is a fine selection of ports and--even more distinctively--sherries. (MG) 4260 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 231-9225. 2 PM-1 AM MONDAYS-SATURDAYS. CLOSED SUNDAYS. ENSENADA'S Ensenada's is one of many taquerias that have sprung up in Northeast Portland over the past few years; its forlorn-looking home on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard stills bears a faded sign from its previous life as a soul-food restaurant. In addition to ample burritos, thick tortas and other standards, the big draw here is seafood: Carlos Medrano and his family, who run the place, come from Ensenada, on Baja California's Pacific Coast just down the road from Tijuana.They offer fabulous tacos of fried snapper, ceviche or crabmeat for only $1.50 apiece. You can have all three for under a fiver and call it dinner.The decor is of the random but highly individual kind that will one day doubtless find its way into a coffee-table edition from Chronicle Books: scattered posters and prints, maps, Ensenada tourist postcards and a prominently displayed returned check from one Theodore Smith (a "bad, bad boy," according to the handwritten caption). (JMcQ) 3962 NE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. BLVD., 249-7378. 10 AM-11 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY, 11 AM-8 PM SUNDAY. ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK PIZZA Now that Pizza Hut is delivering New York-style pizzas right to your door, why the hell would you want to leave the comfort of that ass-formed dent in your couch to go to Portland's signature indie pie shop? Ah, let us count the ways EFNY rules: 1) cheap and perfectly foldable slices; 2) tangy sauce that never clots; 3)just the right amount of cheese to make strings when you pull away from your bite;4) freshly heated slices--always; 5) cute and disaffected counter staff; 6) The New York Times scattered across the counter tops; 7) no dorkus ringing your bell an hour late with a cold pie under his arm. (CBB) 622 NW 23RD AVE., 227-5423. 11:30 AM-11 PM DAILY.