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NEWS STORY

Nature's Abhors A Vacuum
Hold on to your bean sprouts. A spate of top defections from Nature's Fresh Northwest could signal the start of the tofu wars.


BY NIGEL JAQUISS
njaquiss@wweek.com

Stan Amy bought half of Nature's in 1977 for $15,000. He sold it to GNC for $17.5 million
in 1996.

 

When Wild Oats bought the Nature's chain of natural food stores in April, Nature's employed 65 people in its Portland headquarters. Today, after
a string of recent defections, that number is down to about 20.

 

Wild Oats was founded 12 years ago by Michael Gilliland and Elizabeth Cook. Today, their stock in the publicly traded company is worth about $130 million.

 

Wild Oats and Texas-based Whole Foods Market Inc. are by far the two largest chains of natural-food stores. Last year Whole Foods had revenues of $1.39 billion; Wild Oats revenues were $399 million.

 

 

Could mother Nature's give birth to a new natural-foods market?

Given the mass exodus of top talent from Nature's Fresh Northwest since Wild Oats Markets Inc. bought the local chain from GNC in April, the prospect isn't so far-fetched.

Although the first group of employees to leave the company could be termed layoffs ("Natural Selection," WW, June 2, 1999), nearly a dozen top Nature's staffers have recently quit voluntarily, citing philosophical differences with their new boss, a publicly traded company that runs 71 stores in the United States and Canada. Former Nature's owner Stan Amy has heard about the internal turmoil at his old company and is clearly troubled by it.

"It's made clear to me the value of being local and private," Amy says. "I think things are real average now," he adds, "and what we had before was real superior."

Although he and other Nature's alumni are being coy about their plans, it's obvious that with his money and their combined expertise, opening another version of Nature's would hardly represent a stretch. Even prior to the Wild Oats deal, the strategic plan at Nature's called for having up to 12 stores in the Portland area; the old team still thinks that number is realistic.

Analyst Laura Richardson of Pacific Crest Securities says the Portland market does have plenty of room for expansion, but points out that most of the industry is focusing on consolidation rather than startups. But then, the old Nature's team never aspired to be like the rest of the industry.

"What Nature's was offering was very special," says Amy, who sold Nature's to GNC three years ago. "If it's lost, there'll be a vacuum, and the market abhors a vacuum."

Amy hasn't lost his taste for the natural foods business. "As soon as I found out GNC wanted to sell [Nature's], I called GNC," he says. By that time, however, Wild Oats already had the deal pretty well done--at what Amy considered a premium price: $57.5 million.

At 52, Amy says he has no interest in going back into day-to-day grocery operations, but he won't rule out participation. He still owns the building that houses the Southeast Division Street store and those that house the former and existing Nature's stores on Northeast Fremont Street, and he's presumably still sitting on a bundle of cash from his sale to GNC.

News of the Nature's defections, bubbling for several weeks, was first reported in the Sept. 24 Business Journal. The exodus included General Manager Brian Rohter, Marketing Manager Kate Bell and the meat and produce buyers.

It's not as if Wild Oats is passing off chemical-laden apples as organic or forcing Nature's to carry Kool-Aid; instead, the problem seems to be a clash of cultures. Interviews with several former employees suggest that longtime Nature's staffers have trouble with Wild Oats' focus on the bottom line.

Employee health benefits have been scaled back a bit, but staffers seem more concerned by the relationship with vendors.

There have been relatively few changes in product offerings so far, employees say, but as Wild Oats buyers begin supplying local stores, employees expect the selection of produce and other items to shrink. Nature's has been a major buyer of specialty items ranging from white nectarines to heirloom tomatoes, employees say, and such products don't fit in Wild Oats' large-volume, price-sensitive buying strategy.

"Stan Amy had a very strong and admirable vision for the company and the vendors we worked with," says Bell.

At least one supplier agrees with that assessment. "They knew what they wanted, and they were willing to pay for it," says Mary Wurdinger, co-owner of Harry's Hog Haven, a pork producer near Woodburn. Harry's sold Nature's whole live hogs and got paid weekly, says Wurdinger. Wild Oats, by contrast, wants Wurdinger to sell boxed pork parts and only pays monthly, which causes difficulties for Wurdinger. "It's a whole different atmosphere," she says. "Everybody we knew is gone. My phone calls don't always get answered, and checks don't arrive on time."

Although some of the Nature's crowd isn't wild about Wild Oats, investors love the company. Over the past two years, Wild Oats' stock has quadrupled.

Company president and chief operating officer James Lee downplays the significance of the Nature's departures. "You always hate to lose good people," he says. "But morale is good, and it's given us a chance to promote others."

Lee, who has spent 20 years working for mainstream grocery stores, concedes he's in a different world now. "In natural foods you find people who have tremendous passion," he says. "There's almost a magical quality about the industry."

The irony is that the discontent is coming now. When GNC took over the stores three years ago, many observers, including WW, wondered whether Nature's idealists could find happiness working for shopping-mall supplement peddlers. But compared to Wild Oats, former employees say, GNC was a match made in heaven. "GNC was an unbelievable partner," says Bell. "They let us run our business."

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Willamette Week | originally published September 29, 1999

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