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COLUMN

Built Ford Tough


COLUMNBY MAX T. MALT
maxmalt@wweek.com

Nightlife and Comedy Picks
Chameleon Ross, my companion for the evening's trial of ice and firewater, settled into the red plush sofa at Henry Ford's, the oasis in the gauntlet of nothing that is Southwest Barbur Boulevard.

Her leather-jacket-black eyes scanned the collection of multicolored living-room couches, knee-capper coffee tables and framed motorhead knickknacks.

She tossed her icy blond locks and regarded the bubbles and flame spewing from the look-don't-touch tub out front. She dipped into her walloping scotch and soda and scoped the party-dressed bluehairs, their dapper escorts, the gang of mustachioed after-business drinkers and relaxed posse of butch bachelorettes.

She cocked an ear at the velvet tones of keyboard-ace-in-residence Lyle Chaffee, who even then coaxed a nervous frock-wearer through a Patsy Cline standard.

Chameleon Ross said, "I like this place."

Dedicated creatures of the after-dark practically break themselves in half prostrating to worship Ford's, Portland's throwback to meat-and-potatoes Camelot nightlife--the days when cocktails were cold, astronauts had crewcuts and the president's stud farm was his own damn business. In this dark age of retro fakery, one stroll through Ford's reveals the authentic Right Stuff.

As a hyper-perky waitress ferried one chilly delight after another to our table, we called manager Brian Ford over for the inside line on how this Henry's keeps its flavor.

"We seem like the real thing because we are," Ford said with confidence. "We didn't do this because it was retro or because it was cool."

Ford tells the tale: The restaurant began in the '20s as Redmond's on the Hill, the project of an apple grower's widow who fancied her cooking skills more than her orchard organization. Meanwhile, Brian's grandfather (the man who fathered Henry--who was not, please note, the Nazi-sympathizing auto magnate) ran a joint in Canyonville. For three decades, never did the twain meet. Then, when the feds built the interstate, the Canyonville place got plowed. Henry Ford put the compensation cash into the Barbur outpost in '54.

In '61, Henry closed for a 10-day remodel, put up the neon-glory sign that now calls to imbibers and eaters like a siren, and then never touched a thing.

Henry passed on to the lounge in the sky some three years back, leaving the place in the ownership of his wife Jeanne and in the day-to-day care of Brian and his brother Rick--not to mention a bar, kitchen and dining-room staff with centuries of commitment to the place among them.

Rick and Brian haven't messed with the program. Given that idiot decorators have savaged America's lounging heritage in about 30 trendoid spasms since, the decision looks inspired. Especially, Brian notes, since the kids started catching on.

"Our clientele has changed dramatically over the years," he says. "For years we had a very loyal, stable crowd of people who'd been coming for decades, literally. Now you get the club kids, the martini-goers. What's great is, the old crowd keeps coming, and with Lyle playing, you have the old people dancing with the young people."

Still--thank God--Ford's doesn't pander to the hep mafia.

"We're conservative," Ford says. "We're not going to change the decor or start catering to different crowds. I've been to places that are trying to be hip or trying to capture something they're not, and it just doesn't work. Here, you can wear anything you want. You come in, you see people having a good time, and the defenses come down.

"My father's idea was to make customers feel like they were at home, but pampered at the same time. That's what Henry Ford's is about. It's been this way and we'll stay this way."

Raise a glass to that.


NIGHTLIFE PICKS

HENRY FORD'S
9589 SW Barbur Blvd., 245-2434
Lyle Chaffee plays at Henry Ford's Thursday, Friday and Saturday, starting at 7 pm and quitting when he feels like it. According to Brian Ford, he sometimes plays right to the legal limit of 2:30. He's been on the job for three and a half years.

POP! BUBBLE-WRAP ATTACK
Berbati's Pan 231 SW Ankeny St., 248-4579
9 pm Wednesday, Jan. 19
$10

THE FLYING KARAMAZOV BROTHERS
Tiffany Center 1410 SW Morrison St., 248-4662
7:30 pm Monday, Jan. 24
$25

COMEDY PICKS

COMEDYSPORTZ
Competitive ha-ha.
1963 NW Kearney St., 236-8888
9 pm Friday, Jan. 21, 7:30 and 9:30 pm Saturday, Jan. 22
$10

DAVID BRENNER

HBO-certified funnyman. Harvey's Comedy Club
436 NW 6th Ave., 241-0338
8 and 10:30 pm Friday, Jan. 21, and Saturday, Jan. 22
$20

BRODY THEATER

Improv. 1904 NW 27th Ave., 224-0688
8 and 10:30 pm Friday, Jan. 21, and Saturday, Jan. 22.
$5.

PORTLAND COMEDY COMPETITION
Finals. The Kennedy School 5736 NE 33rd Ave., 249-3983
9 pm Sunday, Jan. 22
$3


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Willamette Week | originally published January 26, 2000

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