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COLUMN
A Pub Grows on Alberta Street

BY MAX T. MALT
maxmalt@wweek.com


The Alberta Street Public House
1033 NE Alberta St., 284-7667
Currently serving food only.

Never made it to Love Train--though to hear the stories, I wish I had. It sounds like one of those bars that lives under siege, locked in a wary tango with its patrons, the drink-soaked dance in which each partner suspects the other of the most foul intentions. The sort of place your mother, the newspapers, your school counselors, maiden aunts and better angels would prefer you not to think about, let alone enter.

Today, though, Love Train is no more. The old sign lives on, bolted to a wall inside its squat Alberta digs, but gone are the acoustic tiles that apparently used to obscure the high ceiling and, probably, the OLCC incident-log that some describe in terms befitting the outline for a James Ellroy novel.

These days, the corner belongs to The Alberta Street Public House. Right now, you can only buy food there, but if the owner's plans come to harvest, a Guinness-stained new drinking regime will soon unfold in the nostalgic red-and-gold glow of the old L-Train sign.

On a recent, unseasonably warm night, the master of the house moved through it like an uncommonly charming hurricane. Michael Beglan is every inch a pub owner, and the small fact that his current premises aren't yet fully licensed doesn't stop him from answering his natural call to service. Recognizing your Correspondent (no doubt from my frequent appearances on the Society pages and in the fashionable salons of my social betters), he called for a pint of the Guinness the pub was authorized, by temporary permit, to flog during a Portland Ceili Society show.

As the tan cloud settled atop my capsule of black gold, Beglan described a scheme to revive some of the folky glory enjoyed by his old place, the East Avenue Tavern, once of Burnside, now of fond memory in the hearts of many. Just as the East Ave became a bastion for local folkies, so too could the Alberta Pub. If God and the Liquor Commission stand willing, the place could be fully operational by the end of the year.

Judging from the show by Beginish, a troupe specializing in West Donegal-style Irish traditionals, this will be a very good thing. While the all-seater arrangement in the long, narrow band room didn't allow for much more ribaldry than the odd yelp from otherwise bequem Ceili Society types, the band held forth with fierce passion, sly humor and a heart-tugging sentimentality.

So the Nightcrawler wishes Beglan and his crew the best of luck with their worthy endeavor on Alberta--not that he needs help from the likes of us.


 

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