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REVIEW

Palace Coup
Russian fever hits Portland as the hotsy-totsy Stroganoff exhibition strikes the city center; the cultural scene starts to itch.

BY DANIEL DUFORD
243-2122 EXT 313


Winterfest Picks

Trio Voronezh: young Russian master musicians storm Amerika

Stroganoff: The Palace and Collections of a Russian Noble Family
Portland Art Museum, 1219 SW Park Ave., 226-2811
Feb. 19-May 31, $6-$13

It must have been hard for John Buchanan, director of the Portland Art Museum, to believe the woman he met at a Paris dinner party back in 1996 was truly a Russian princess. It must have sounded a little like the story of Anna Anderson, who spent a lifetime trying to convince people she was the youngest daughter of Czar Nicholas Romanov.

But Baroness Hélène de Ludinghausen's identity was no historical mystery. The heir to a vast collection of paintings, furniture and various objets d'art, she had an earnest proposition for Buchanan. She wanted to showcase the dispersed collection of her ancestors, the Stroganoff family. After a glamorous life abroad working for some of the top names in the fashion industry, including Yves Saint Laurent, the baroness had turned her attention to her ancestral homeland.

Buchanan agreed to do the exhibition. It took years of research and parleying with museum authorities in Russia, but Stroganoff: The Palace and Collections of a Russian Noble Family is finally here.

The Portland Art Museum is using Stroganoff, one of the biggest shows ever curated in-house, to unveil the last phase of Project for the Millennium. The timing is serendipitous because Stroganoff is not so much about an era or a style but about taste and who shapes it. In much the same way as private donors in Portland are funding the museum expansion, the Stroganoffs, through their acquisitions, helped to shape cultural tastes in their day.

A powerful noble family since the 15th century, the Stroganoffs turned the salt, fur and ore trades of Siberia into a wealthy patrimony. The family's legacy includes the Stroganoff Palace in St. Petersburg, a huge collection of Old Master paintings and the work of some of the greatest craftsmen in Europe. When the Bolsheviks claimed the holdings as state property after the October Revolution, the palace became an arm of the Hermitage, or state museum, and until recently housed bureaucratic and military offices. Today the Hermitage is under restoration, but it's comically underfunded and dependent on the dedication of private organizations like the Stroganoff Foundation, founded in 1992 by the baroness.

The family's greatest arbiter of taste was Count Alexander Sergeievich Stroganoff (1733-1811). Alexander, a close friend and advisor to Catherine the Great, lived many years in western Europe soaking up classical and Parisian culture. As a result, he brought home to Russia some of the finest examples of European art.

In the meantime, Alexander served as president of the Academy of Arts and lent huge amounts of support to Russian artists. Through both the Academy and numerous architectural commissions, Alexander shaped a Russian art influenced by current European models. He also groomed Andrei Voronikhin, one of Russia's premier neoclassical designers and probably Alexander's illegitimate son, to be an architect and designer. Voronikhin redesigned parts of the Palace, and his architectural drawings, furniture and paintings make up a large portion of the exhibition at PAM. A prime example of Voronikhin's neoclassical bent is his design for the Malachite Coupe (pictured). This three-legged marvel of gilt bronze and green malachite is the kind of ornate object that one associates with the opulence of the era. Each leg of the tripod begins with a hoof that rises gracefully to the torso of an angel whose wings support a stone bowl.

The coupe helps form a picture not only of the taste of the Stroganoffs, but of the difficulties of mounting such an exhibition. The fragile piece was one of the last to be approved for shipping to the U.S. The museums wrangled back and forth. The Hermitage at one point offered a copy. The baroness and local curators were adamant about having the original. As a centerpiece in Alexander's picture gallery, the coupe is the chosen symbol of the museum's exhibition. Without it, the show would be hollow. In the end, the museum got its symbol.

High culture has always been supported by--indeed, defined by--wealthy patrons, and the opulence of the Malachite Coupe represents the taste of an elite. The Stroganoffs' works of noblesse oblige spanned more time and more genres than the those of the Medicis; they built churches, commissioned buildings, supported artists and opened their painting gallery to the public.

Without wealthy patronage, we wouldn't have museum expansions, traveling exhibits or public art. But even wealth is subject to the tremors of social upheaval, as both the French and Russian revolutions show us. Whatever the baroness preserves through this show and her foundation will restore to Russia an important piece of its history.



 
With just six strings and a bunch of buttons, young Russian master musicians Trio Voronezh storm Amerika.


BY BILL SMITH
243-2122 EXT 310


Trio Voronezh plays the Stroganoff Gala Opening
Portland Art Museum, Whitsell Auditorium, 725-3307. 6:30 pm Tuesday, Feb. 22. Champagne, caviar, reception and private viewing of the Stroganoff exhibition. $100. Second concert 8 pm Wednesday, Feb. 23. $13.50-$26.

Trio Voronezh's self-titled CD is available on Angel Records.



Even though they come to Portland all the way from Russia, Trio Voronezh is hardly unfamiliar to local classical fiends. The group first stormed our shores in 1996, hitting the Oregon Bach Festival and turning it on its ear. Now the young bucks are back to help kick off the Portland Art Museum's Stroganoff exhibit.

The trio combines the oscillating interplay of Vladimir Volochin's three-stringed, mandolinlike domra and Valerie Petruchin's monstrous bass balalaika with the harmonic atmospherics of Sergei Teleshev's bajan (or chromatic-button accordion). The result is a beautiful noise of furious virtuosity and humor.

At the Bach-fest, the artists formerly known as Soviets showed revolutionary style. From the Baroque interplay of Vivaldi and Bach to challenging modern fare by the group's countrymen Stravinsky, Shostakovich and Shnitke, the three silenced those detractors who turn their noses up at the thought of folkloric fancy in the house of Bach.

If that were all they did, it would be enough to impress. However, the group's uniqueness--and why it gets the post-modern stamp of approval--lies in its mixing of any music that floats the three members' improvisational boat. "We've always chosen from all kinds of music," says 26-year-old balalaika player Petruchin. So after a straight reading of Vivaldi (if you call transcribing the Italian master's Concerto in G major for domra, balalaika and bajan playing it straight) they'll launch into a tango by Astor Piazzolla or a free-form Gershwin medley or a raucous Russian folk dance by Volochin's domra mentor, the contemporary Russian folk composer Zigankov. Petruchin, his long hair falling past his shoulders, asserts that the band plays with as much fire and intensity as a rock-and-roll band.

Petruchin and Teleshev met 15 years ago in the working-class Russian city of Voronezh ("vo-RO-nesh") while in music school and hooked up with Volochin when the latter won the 1988 All Russia Domra Competition. Petruchin, who originally played accordion himself, switched to the bass balalaika, and the trio began traveling through Europe and busking on city streets. A tape made by a friend while playing in the Frankfurt subway was sent to the Oregon Bach Festival and duly impressed festival founder Helmuth Rilling. The trio has appeared there in each of the past three festivals.

The Eugene exposure led to a stint on Garrison Keillor's Prairie Home Companion and, finally, to a three-disc deal with EMI Angel. The first disc, which also includes an Argentine tango and pieces by Shostakovich and Mendelssohn, was released this past year to great acclaim.

Trio Voronezh is still far from being a household name. But the three ambitious Russians are working on it. "We don't know of another trio playing both Russian folk and classical," says Petruchin. "In fact," he adds, "we don't know of another trio in Russia at all. They're all quartets."



WINTERFEST PICKS

SOVIET PHOTOGRAPHY
Vladimir Mayakovsky's feral face, captured in a 1924 print by Alexander Rodchenko, presides over this premium selection of shots from the heady, horrible period of Soviet fluorescence between 1930 and '60. Even as Stalin murdered millions, the Soviet Union transformed itself from a backwards feudal state to an industrialized dynamo, and that fluxing energy radiates from the gorgeous black-and-whites of Rodchenko, Yevgheny Khaldai, El Lissitzky and others. It's not the whole story--or anything close--but a country's self-made image can be just as instructive as the skeletons heaped in its closet. This is a remarkably energetic exhibit, and you should go. Simple. (Zach Dundas)

S K Josefsburg, 403 NW 11th Ave., 241-9112. Ends Feb. 26.

AFTERNOON OF RUSSIAN CHESS
To paraphrase PJ O'Rourke: If the Russians are smart enough to make chess a national sport, how come the country's so messed up? Chalk it up to a national affinity for paradox. In fact, Russia and her old Soviet sisters have produced the lion's share of 20th-century world champions. Maybe the naturally introspective and passionate peoples of the late Red empire feel like the conspiracy-ridden drama of their existence plays out in the 64 squares' violence, calculation and improvisational daring. Whatever. For certain, though, chess is more than a game in the Motherland. Check (no pun intended) out this gathering to discover whether the next Kasparov is hiding somewhere in the Pac Northwest. (ZD)

Whitsell Auditorium and Sunken Ballroom at the Portland Art Museum
1219 SW Park Ave. 1-5 pm Saturday, April 15.
Call Oregon Council for the Humanities, 241-0543 or 227-2583, Literary Arts, for tickets.

ICE HOCKEY: KHABAROVSK VS. PORTLAND JUNIOR WINTERHAWKS
In an oft-frozen land, hockey is surpassed only by soccer in sporting popularity. Russia's talent pool is so deep that the country stocks half the NHL, layers of North American minor leagues, its own tough national circuit and the putative Olympic teams of theoretically de-Russified states like Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. The Junior Winterhawks may not know what hit them after this collision with young skaters from our Russian sister city. Then again, remember Lake Placid! (ZD)

Tournament runs Feb. 18-21.
Valley Ice Arena, 9250 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, 297-2521.
Call arena for ticket prices and game times.

GOGALLERY
When I met Luba Gonina at her tiny gallery in Old Town, she began our meeting in the Russian style--with a shot of vodka. Many deals went badly for the Americans when they first started doing business in the former Soviet Union for this very reason. Americans' capacity for vodka, Luba explained, is no match for the Russians'. Indeed, I would have given away the family farm halfway through my next drink. Fortunately I was only there to talk about art. Visit Luba's charmingly cramped gallery and let her sell you a painting--or a bridge. (Michaela Lowthian)

GoGallery, "Reflections of Russian Classical Culture" by Nina Mikhailenko,
328 NW Broadway, No. 117, 294-1903. Ends March 3.
A group show of Russian-American painters follows in March and April.


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Willamette Week | originally published February 16, 2000

 

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