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Plastic Fantastique

BY LIZ BROWN
243-2122 ext. 325


For more information on Bakelite, check out the following books (all are available at the Multnomah County Central Library):

Twentieth Century Fashionable Plastic Jewelry by Lillian Baker;

Bakelite: An Illustrated Guide to Collectible Bakelite Objects by Patrick Cook and Catherine Slessor;

The Story of Bakelite by John Kimberly Mumford

Ray's Ragtime (1021 SW Morrison St., 226-2616) has a nice selection of Bakelite pieces.


If you've ever scoffed at the notion that plastic jewelry could be anything but cheap, or looked on in confusion as a fellow shopper rubbed and sniffed a brownish bangle snatched from a thrift-store bin, you've got a thing or two to learn about Bakelite.

A moldable plastic, early- to mid-20th-century Bakelite jewelry and household items fetch serious dough (we're talking thousands of dollars) at online auctions and vintage shops. And while in-the-know fashion plates have always adored the dark-toned baubles, in recent years many more have been swept up in the charm of Bakelite. Recently, it even turned up on the runway at a '40s-themed fashion show (benefiting Maryhill Museum) as a bow-shaped pin. Beyond the constant recycling of all things retro, it seems a growing number of people are done discounting the importance of plastics (think Dustin Hoffman in The Graduate) and rediscovering the appeal of synthetically spawned jewelry and household goods.

A limited supply of original pieces doesn't hurt the market, either. Whatever the case, if you're ready to sniff out the stuff--for fun or profit--here's a thing or two you should know about "the material of a thousand uses."

Bits-O-Bakelite

* Bakelite, referred to as the world's first true synthetic, was invented in 1907 by chemist-entrepreneur Leo Baekeland. It was used to make everything from necklaces and buttons to telephones and radio cabinets, primarily from the '20s through the '60s. It was the perfect material for sleek Art Deco designs.

* Women put Victorian ideals of minimalist jewelry aside during the Jazz Age and began to wear more bracelets, pins, necklaces and other adornments. Plastics, including Bakelite, were durable, easy to make and lightweight, and they could be mass produced--in other words, perfect for the times. It's been estimated that two-thirds of all costume jewelry was made from Bakelite in the mid-'30s.

* Many Bakelite objects were destroyed in the '70s and '80s because they were considered commonplace and worthless. Now their rarity makes them valuable. Sotheby's auctions off Bakelite items for big bucks, and numerous museum exhibits have celebrated the material in recent years.

* The formal chemical name for Bakelite is a spelling bee contestant's nightmare: polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride.

* The word 'Bakelite' has become something of a generic term, since Union Carbide used the Bakelite mark to sell other plastics (PVC, for example) after the company acquired Baekeland's biz in 1939.

* Some distinguishing characteristics of Bakelite (molded phenolics) are a strong, odd taste, mottled or swirled colors, shine retention and high heat resistance. Colors are relatively dark (brown, black and maroon, for example) and may fade. Bakelite also can become brittle and cracked over time. A related prized plastic for jewelry is Catalin (referring to cast phenolics or cast Bakelite), which is often translucent and more colorful (brights and pastels are common), with a slight taste and a smell when washed. Catalin jewelry is often marbleized with two or more colors. Chemical tests can be used to determine whether a piece is made of Bakelite, Catalin, Lucite or some other plastic.

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