THE CRAFT OF THE IRISH
by ABRAM GOLDMAN-ARMSTRONG
243-2122

DATELINE: Dublin, Ireland. There's probably more than two ways Ireland and Portland are alike, but the wet winters and love of beer stand out in my mind. One difference also is clear. In Cascadia, we favor craft beer; in Ireland, craft-brewing is just beginning to take root.

The Big Three corporate breweries in the other land o'green are Guinness, Beamish and Murphy's, instead of America's watery triumvirate of Bud, Miller and Coors. In Ireland it's not so much a matter of introducing the public to good beer as it is a contest to break brand loyalties. This is why Irish craft brewers have their work cut out for them.

So who are you gonna call for inspiration? The Pacific Northwest, of course.

Since I lived in Ireland three years ago, the number of craft breweries and brewpubs has grown from less than five to a dozen. Upon arriving in Dublin, I went straight to Messrs. Maguire. This multi-level brewpub and restaurant overlooking the River Liffey and its bridges boasts some very interesting beers. Making my way through the Messrs' taster-tray, I came to "Extra," their double stout. The familiar scent of Cascade hops assailed my nostrils. Developed at Oregon State University in 1972, this hop variety is one of the most popular with Northwest microbrewers, and its grapefruit-like flavor and aroma are a hallmark of such regional favorites as MacTarnahan's Amber.

At the Franciscan Well, a brewpub on my old street in Cork City, the piney citrus aroma and flavor of Bellringer Winter Warmer comes from Cascades. A local pub owner took over the spot in 1998 and contacted Russell Garet, formerly of Seattle's Pacific Northwest Brewing Company, about starting a brewpub. Garet took the job and the pub opened in December 1998. Like most Irish microbreweries, the Well brews a stout, a red ale, a Czech-style lager and a blonde ale. Garet still keeps one significant tie with the Northwest--the yeast he brews with is shipped overnight from Wyeast Labs, on Mount Hood.

Back in Dublin I visited the Porterhouse, one of Ireland's pioneering brewpubs, founded in 1996. Its specialty brews are still made on premises by Brian Taft, a former Ponzi Vineyards employee. A unique tower brewing system starts with the grist mill in the Porterhouse attic, dropping into the mash tun, then the brew kettle, and ending up in the fermentation tanks in the basement. The Porterhouse boasts nine of its own beers, including the rich, creamy Oyster Stout and TSB, a pale ale, as well as a huge, global list of bottled beers.

Though he feels that Ireland could support 20-30 craft breweries, Garet says "the jury is still out on microbreweries in Ireland." I say Ireland may never be the beer mecca that Oregon is, but craft brewing is growing stronger, pint by pint.