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Soda Jerk

BY DAVID WALKER
243-2122



Mt. Angel Brewing Company sodas can be found at Zupan's markets and Made in Oregon stores (various
locations).

For more information, visit the Mt. Angel Brewing Company's website at www.mtangelbrewing.com.


Mount Angel, Oregon--the name conjures up Norman Rockwell-esque images of a town where Sheriff Taylor and Deputy Fife still patrol without their guns. When you stop at the local diner for a home-cooked meal, Lucy Mae, the waitress, might suggest you wash down your lunch with one of Mt. Angel Brewing Company's locally produced sodas.

Now, I'm a hardcore soda drinker, the sort of weirdo who knows the difference between Dr. Pepper and Mr. Pibb and is prepared to expound at length on the topic. In other words, I don't take my carbonated beverages lightly. For a city slicker such as myself, the idea of specialty crafted, microbrewed soda seems kind of quaint--like the kids down the street from my place with the lemonade stand. Mt. Angel Brewing Company got started in the world of microbrewed sodas in 1995. Its flagship brew was the well-received Old Fashioned Rootbeer. With growing sales, the independently owned and operated business has recently added a few new flavors drawn right from the fruits of our great state--locally grown marionberry and hazelnut, for instance. Unlike the big daddies, Coke and Pepsi, each batch of microbrewed soda takes about eight hours to craft.

The lightly carbonated Orange Cream Soda tastes just like a melted-down Creamsicle. It's perfect for battling the summer heat; it conjures up memories of chasing down the ice-cream man. With just the right mix of orange and vanilla flavor, it isn't sickeningly sweet; rather, it relies on natural extracts used in the brewing process to provide its sugary kick.

Many sodas that claim to be berry-flavored taste nothing like the fruit that inspires them, but MABC's Marionberry Soda tastes surprisingly like the real thing. With a tart punch and a slightly less sweet taste than the Orange Cream, the Marionberry is also a bit more carbonated. Its lack of overpowering sweetness magnifies the unique, tart flavor of the marionberries.

By far the most far-out of MABC's three new flavors--and the least satisfying--is Hazelnut Cream. At first there seems to be a root-beer-like flavor, but that's just the hazelnuts talking; they provide an odd, nutty taste that never really grew on me. The mix of vanilla cream is overpowering, making for a too-sweet combination that does not go down smoothly. This was the first soda I'd ever swigged that gave me the equivalent of the ol' bitter-beer wince.

All the same, given the wide assortment of alternative soft drinks on the market, from the caffeine-fueled Red Bull to the so-sweet-they-burn-your-throat Voodoo Rain products, it's nice to have something low-key on the shelves that's not only local but a bit more wholesome and old-fashioned than the rest.


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