A ROTATING GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS WE LIKE Navigator: Northwest | Southeast | Northeast | Downtown/Southwest | Suburbs | Late Night $: up to $15 per person, beverage and tip included $$: $25 and under $$$: $35 and under $$$$: above $35 WW reviewers have visited these establishments recently and can recommend them. The restaurant world is squirrely; please call for reservation information and hours. Northwest DOGS DIG This veggie deli is a grab-it-and-dash breed of streetside service with a twist: It's vegan lunch central. Order one of the soup specials--always a pleasant daydream. And pray they have prepared the Nairobi pea and yam soup: a creamy and smooth combination of sweet orange tubers and soft baby green peas that is capped with a healthy dose of electrifying cumin. All sandwiches at Dogs Dig are served in a brown paper bag half-filled with either pretzels or popcorn--the forgotten children of lunchtime savory snack foods. Vegetarian 212 NW Davis St., 223-3362. Takeout only. $ LE BOUCHON Le Bouchon does not serve haute cuisine, but its bistro dishes and the charmingly French ambience make this one of the best casual places in Portland to have dinner. It's an entirely French-owned and -operated place, and the menu is filled with simple classics: onion soup, pâté with cornichons, snails, sweetbreads, magret de canard sauced with cream and brandy, kidneys, crème caramel, chocolate mousse. Nothing is trendy here, nothing will stun you with its inventiveness or culinary finesse--it's just good, honest, straightforward cooking served with the kind of aplomb the French manage so impressively. French 517 NW 14th Ave., 248-2193. $$-$$$ RICHIE B.'S This new eatery, in the old Gabriel's Bakery spot, offers New York-style sandwiches, pizza and, as a sign near the entrance tells us, "appetites and attitudes." And it delivers on both promises. The hoagie here is called an Italian sub and will set you back a hefty $7.25. It's filled with all the requisite meats and cheeses and resembles a baseball bat when served. This sub is a good thing that could be a great thing with a few alterations. American 2272 NW Kearney St., 299-1200. $ TAPEO Ricardo Segura has brought a little bit of Spain to his storefront restaurant, and the best way to start your exploration may be with an order of tostaditas de boquerones. Homemade bread is thinly sliced, toasted, spread with a tapenade of farga and manzanilla olives and topped with a shiny, marinated anchovy that will forever change your notion of the minuscule, maligned fish. Finish up with the best flan in town. Spanish 2764 NW Thurman St., 226-0409. $$$ Southeast ASSAGGIO Assaggio means a taste or a sampling, and the entire menu here is set up around this gracious concept. The highlight of the entree list is a variety of three pastas, selected daily by the chef. If you're not in the mood for small portions, any of the 16 freshly prepared dishes makes a perfect meal all by itself. Italian 7742 SE 13th Ave., 232-6151. $$ BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB Fusion is a concept largely ignored by local Indian restaurants. The Cricket Club takes a swing at it, presenting what amounts to two separate menus, one North Indian, the other Middle Eastern. The Cricket Club is no Saucebox, but the owners' willingness to try something even slightly different should be applauded. Indian/ Middle Eastern 1925 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-0740. $$-$$$ CAPRIAL'S BISTRO Caprial's food is decidedly eclectic, often with Asian inflections on western cooking. At its best, ingredients come together with startling ingenuity. At its worst--though individual aspects of a dish may be prepared well--there's a disconcerting sense of incongruity. This place thrives on surprising juxtapositions; who would have thought feta cheese would work with a poblano chili and tomatillo sauce? If you enjoy a mélange of tastes, a kind of gastronomic travelogue within a single dish, this is your spot. Longtime fans (and they are legion) still enjoy choosing their wines from the wall of well-selected bottles and paying a very modest corkage fee, a touch that is one of the best reasons for having a meal here. Eclectic 7015 SE Milwaukie Ave., 236-6457. $$-$$$ IL PIATTO Regulars at this homey Italian cafe each have a favorite dish, one that tastes so good they have to order it again and again, even if it means skipping something else that looks almost as delicious. For many, it's the portobello mushrooms in garlic cream with polenta, a blend of robust flavors that tempts eaters to dispense with table manners so they can actually lick the bowl clean. For others it's the crespelle alla ricotta. You decide. Italian 2348 SE Ankeny St., 236-4997. $$$ IVY HOUSE For many parents, the thought of dining out with kids is connected with the phrase "happy meal." But Ivy House offers families a very civilized, relaxed alternative to fast-food joints. As the kids play nearby, parents can savor delicious, expertly prepared food from an ambitious menu that changes seasonally. Eclectic 1605 SE Bybee Blvd., 231-9528. $$-$$$ MAD HATTER LOUNGE Squeeze into this basement cubby hole on a weekend night, and you can have decent hippie-diner-bistro grub. You may have to shout to talk to your date, but that's cool, because your mouth will likely as not be too full of Bunny Burger, the house specialty. (Don't worry! They use beef, not bunnies! No cute animals are harmed! Just a plain ol' burger, OK?) A side of sweet-potato fries, a suitably granolian take-off on all-American grease pommes, augments the juicy Bunny slab nicely. Generous salads play to the heart-smart set, as does an entree centered on a brick of delicious, tangy salmon. A clutch of pastas and other standard-issue boho fare rounds out the selection, all perfect padding for determined beer-swilling that seems to be the big draw, comestibles-wise. American 206 SE Grand Ave., 231-2925. $-$$. PARADOX PALACE CAFE This Southeast Belmont diner sits unassumingly behind an unremarkable storefront, under a sign that says simply "Cafe." Inside, the Paradox is like a living, evolving creature, with a hippie personality and a funky decor that (until recently) changed regularly. But beyond looks, the Paradox's bottom line is that the food is healthy, cheap and plentiful, with nothing on the menu that's more than seven bucks. The menu's dominant focus is veg-head, with things like Tofurky, faux sausages and other meatless standbys. Breakfast features your basic pancakes, eggs and waffles. There's beef and veggie burgers, mac and cheese, and the tempeh reuben for lunch. The short dinner menu includes pasta dishes, Asian noodle medley, burritos and a quesadilla. Vegetarian Cafe 3439 SE Belmont St., 232-2508. $ North/Northeast BEATERVILLE CAFE For less than the price of a '74 Dart wheel cover, you can eat like you're driving a much more stylin' ride. Breakfasts are built around frittata-style omelettes, from the doomed-but-visionary Edsel spuds with bell pepper and cheddar, to the nearly forgotten road king DeSoto, with cheddar, spinach, tomatoes, garlic and bacon. This is basically good, solid diner fare upgraded with decent bread, fresh vegetables, leaf-lettuce salads and extra care in the kitchen. American 2201 N Killingsworth St., 735-4652. $ BERNIE'S SOUTHERN BISTRO From its Down South-of-France name to its crawfish-out-of-water Northeast Alberta Street location, Bernie's Southern Bistro sustains a playful tension between expectation and deliverance. Hearty southern cuisine is given a nouvelle treatment, with results as disconcertingly comforting as a porch bench rocking on unseen gliders. Southern 2904 NE Alberta St., 282-9864. $$-$$$ COUNTY CORK PUBLIC HOUSE When it comes to Irish food, County Cork takes a different approach. Rather than ersatz Irish dishes, this pub offers real flavor along with the Guinness. There's an Irish theme, of course: Bangers and mash combines grilled sausages and garlic mashed potatoes, and a cold plate of Irish cheddar, hard-boiled egg, pickled onions, sliced apple, dill pickles and a wedge of soda bread called the ploughman's platter purports to be a "traditional Irish workman's lunch." But the burgers, fries and clam chowder are just like what owner Jeanie Subotnick used to make when she ran Shakers. Irish 1329 NE Fremont St., 284-4805. $$ DU'S GRILL Finding a shorter menu than Du's is not easy; finding better teriyaki or bento is even more difficult. This small storefront grills chicken, beef and pork Korean-style. With your meal comes a mountain of rice and a creditable salad. Kim chee is on the menu if you prefer pickled salad to iceburg. Asian 5365 NE Sandy Blvd., 284-1773. $ HORN OF AFRICA Somalia, Kenya and Djibouti share the eponymous geography of Africa's east coast with the former kingdom of Abyssinia, and the food served at this outpost of a little-known culture reflects flavors from the entire region. Unlike most of the Ethiopian food served in Portland, these dishes are not particularly fiery. If you like it hot, ask for a bit of chutney--a thin blend of cilantro, jalapeño, garlic, vinegar and spices. Abyssinian 3939 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 331-9844. $ RUSTICA ITALIAN CAFFE Rustica is a good spot for appetizers and wine before movies at the Lloyd Center or for full-blown leisurely meals. The solid offerings are everything you would expect from a neighborhood Italian place, and more. Italian 1700 NE Broadway, 288-0990. $$$ Downtown/Southwest GOOD DOG/BAD DOG Don't believe the hype--hot dogs are still king. The proof? This downtown doghouse is almost always full of lunchtime revelers seeking its quirky atmosphere and true-blue bratwurst, kielbasa, British bangers, sweet Italians, hot Italian and an even hotter Magma dog. Sausages 708 SW Alder St., 222-3410. $ HOUSE OF ASIA More than its snazzy decor, House of Asia is distinguished by a dining-room kitchen: an open, stainless-steel fortress in which the native Cambodian chefs can showcase their flair. Knives chop-chop with an even, rhythmic beat just steps away from the tables; flames--controlled and otherwise--jump 6 feet into the towering oven vents; meats are evenly sauteed with that quick flick-o'-the-wrist exclusive to well-trained cooks. It's pretty sophisticated for a walk-in mini-mall joint, and the food, which covers many regions of Asia, is also surprisingly refined. Asian 7113 SW Macadam Ave. (inside Zupan's Macadam Village), 452-5002. $$ JAKE'S FAMOUS CRAWFISH For more than a century, Jake's has attracted crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff. The Southwest Portland fixture remains especially appealing in a town that can, at times, become a little fusion-happy. Make sure to try a broad plate of the restaurant's still-famous crawfish--your server will certainly show you how to eat them. Seafood 401 SW 12th Ave., 226-1419. $$$-$$$$ RED STAR TAVERN AND ROAST HOUSE Rarely does homey food enjoy as grand a stage as the hearty spit-roasted meats and fried okra at Red Star Tavern and Roast House. There's no whiff of Delta Cafe whimsy here, and not all the cuisine is influenced by the bayou, but chef Rob Pando's Louisiana leaning is evident. Red Star's actual menu is oddly chatty--appetizers fall under the heading, "To begin, think big, start small..." and, moving on to salads, "Next step, it's a doozy..."--but once you've experienced the étouffée, it doesn't really matter. American 503 SW Alder St., 222-0005. $$$$ PASTA VELOCE The pastas are simple and light, and the portions are honest. Every bowl of noodles--there are over a dozen choices in all--comes with fresh Parmesan and bruschetta. Standouts include penne alla zucca, a vegetarian mix of butternut squash, spinach and tomatoes, and the gnocchi with grilled chicken, broccoli, tomatoes, Gorgonzola, walnuts and brown butter. Italian 1022 SW Morrison St., 916-4388, and 933 SW 3rd Ave., 223-8200. $ THAI PEACOCK This Thai hot spot anchors one of downtown's most oddly shaped and eclectic blocks. And unlike the bird after which it is named, the restaurant's aesthetics--bare pine, a couple of lonely textiles and some nervous-looking aquarium fish--are spartan; the food, however, is as rich and varied as the hues in a peacock's tail. Thai Peacock's greatest strength is curry. Whether green, yellow, red or Penang, the curries here are eggplant-laden bowls of heaven. Thai 219 SW 9th Ave., 228-2310. $ Suburbs HALL STREET GRILL Inside a dining room of ski-lodge capaciousness, a range of interesting dishes is served by a very agreeable staff. Menu hits include mesquite-grilled pork chops in a maple sauce, portobello mushroom ravioli and Hawaiian swordfish with vermouth lemon butter (!) and artichoke tartar. It may be located in an unlikely spot, but this is an inventive restaurant drawing skillfully from a broad palate. Northwest 3375 SW Hall Blvd., Beaverton, 641-6161. $$$-$$$$ MERCHANT OF VENICE Back in the early 1990s the Merchant of Venice, known for thoughtful and inexpensive Italian cuisine, occupied a run-down building on Northeast Broadway until gentrification pushed it out. More than four years later and about 15 miles away, the Merchant has been reborn in the award-winning suburban development called Orenco Station and serves up the same homey Italian food. Italian 1341 NE Orenco Station Parkway, Hillsboro, 640-1523. $$-$$$ Late Night HOLMAN'S This is a neighborhood cafe full of big food for big eaters. You'll get enough, and more, of everything and the price is right. You got your basics: hamburgers, fries and onion rings. None of the burgers is over $5, except the Gardenburger, which is a spendy $6.75. That should tell you something. Holman's is open all night Fridays and Saturdays and is blessedly lacking in forced Southeast Portland hipness. As at Denny's, you can get breakfast all night here, but unlike at Denny's, there's a full bar. Don't forget to spin the "Meal Wheel." If you win, your meal is free. American 15 SE 28th Ave., 231-1093. $ LOW BROW LOUNGE The real selling point of this dark hangout is simple. It's the tater tots. Other hipster dives shovel fried treats down semi-wasted nightcrawler gullets, but none equals the unplaceable pleasures of these greasy carbo-nuggets. A heaping trough of the lip-smacking bastards--more than enough to fortify you and your escort of the evening for whatever revels lie ahead--runs just $2.50. You can add a scattering of corndogs for $.50, or get the tots riding shotgun with the 'Brow's less-distinguished selection of sandwiches, gringo burritos and the like. American 1036 NW Hoyt St., 225-0200. $