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Simply Chic Chick
Why Kim Johnson Gross is my style goddess.


BY CHRISTINA MELANDER
cmelander@wweek.com

You probably don't recognize the name Kim Johnson Gross. She doesn't do guest spots in Old Navy commercials or have her own line of clothes at K-Mart, but she's influenced gobs of people seeking chic. In fact, you've most likely flipped through one of her books at some point in your life. As co-founder of the 22-book-strong Chic Simple publishing empire, Johnson Gross helped create a new way to drool over clothes and established herself as the counselor you can relate to most from the less-is-more camp.

Chic Simple started in May 1993 with two books: Home and Clothes. Less than half a year later, four new titles followed. The design of the books is as sleek and comely as Elle Decor or Wallpaper, and each page is self-contained, so you can simply skim along and alight where you please. Some might call it Wardrobe Building for Dummies, but Chic Simple is smarter than that. Even though the volumes feature primarily spendy threads, they are more convincing than any magazine in making you believe that you can dress for less.

Just like fashion glossies, the Chic Simple series captures the reader with beautiful photos--only here, the clothes float figureless instead of clinging to impossible models. It's easy to put yourself in the equation. Soon you start to think about how you can adapt your wardrobe to mirror the look on the page. Could I wear my white shirt like that? Is it worth shelling out that kind of money for a pair of timeless gabardine trousers? Don't I have a fisherman sweater like that buried in the basement? It's kind of like high-class clothing porn. Also addictive is the books' liberal sprinkling of insightful tidbits and amusing quotations. Did you know that a man's jacket should be just long enough to cover the curve of the buttocks? Now you do.

I had the occasion to meet Johnson Gross, a former model who later enjoyed editing and marketing stints at Esquire, Town & Country and Avenue, during a stop in Portland last October to promote the latest addition to the Chic Simple collection, What Should I Wear? It was pouring that day and what was she wearing? Black trousers, a black leather jacket and a white cashmere sweater tied around her shoulders over the jacket. Begrudgingly, I realized then that she had to be about a million people's idol, and in more than a few ways she is mine.



HERE ARE JUST A FEW REASONS THE CHIC SIMPLE CHICK RULES:

* She's funny. When I asked her if Chic Simple often gets confused with Shabby Chic, she said, "Not really, but we do get mail addressed to Sheik Simple."

* The design of the books was inspired mainly by the entertaining educational approach of Sesame Street.

* She uses the word "festive" a lot.

* She doesn't fall prey to every "new" black. She still stands by monochromatic black dressing because it's the easiest--and it makes you look and feel thinner.

* She stays in bed with her husband on weekend mornings instead of using the rare free time to work out.

* Chic Simple is at work on a book to address the needs of plus-size women.

* On grooming, from Work Clothes (1996): "Underarm hair should never be exposed on the job."

* Rubbermaid gets the Chic Simple stamp of approval: "There is an incredible utilitarian beauty in their functionality."

* She gives it up for Portlanders. At Ask Kim (http://shop.aol.com/chicsimple/askkim), she responded to this question from someone named Sally: "I am spending New Year's Eve outdoors in downtown Portland, where the city is having a firework celebration. I want to look festive yet be warm, and we don't get too dressy here in Portland. Any ideas?" Her PDX-practical recommendation: a long skirt or pants that say "party," over longjohns and boots, plus a parka and pony skin bag.

* She recognizes our flaws and gives us what we want: "I think people recognize design more than words. I don't think people really read or listen carefully."

* She refers to the quirky quotes scattered throughout the books as "voices of wisdom." Example: "The two basic items necessary to sustain life are sunshine and coconut milk." --Dustin Hoffman in Midnight Cowboy

* There is actually an ensemble tailored to the activity of "Leaf Crunching" in What Should I Wear? Witness: Levi's 501s, black turtleneck (preferably cashmere), Calvin Klein walking boots and a Ghurka getaway bag--"with outside pockets to stow maps, baguettes or the paper."

* The books include clever history lessons conducive to cocktail party banter. In Work Clothes, for example, we learn that the classic L.L. Bean tote bag originated in 1944 as an ice carrier for stocking the icebox. It was reissued in the '60s as the Boat and Tote bag, made nautical with contrasting trim.

* CS encourages us to dream of Marcello Mastroianni, to take your bit of la dolce vita and sport a a leopard-print purse, even if you live in Kansas.

* What Should I Wear? provides an unusual production soundtrack, the albums that got the staff through. On the list? Either/Or by hometown darling Elliott Smith, Serge Gainsbourg's Couleur Cafe, Dig Your Own Hole by Chemical Brothers, and good ol' Barry White.

* She's irreverent. I asked her who primarily the new book targets. Her reply? "Women who are just out of college, women who have active lives, women who have to think about what they're going to wear. So that's, you know, a lot of women."

* She walks the walk. I inquired which five things she has to have with her when traveling and, ever the pared-down minimalist, she listed four: black pants, black top, a sweater, loafers.

* She embraces Target.

* She's not a fashion slave: "I like very comfortable clothes. I'm really glad that Birkenstocks are being reworked in every color and fabric imaginable."

* She complimented me on my outfit.

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Willamette Week | originally published January 26, 2000


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