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Virtual Food
This supermarket junkie never thought he'd buy his precious groceries online. Until he tried it.

BY JIM DIXON
jdixon@realgoodfood.com

Find out more information about www.homegrocer.com.

I love to buy food. I heft every orange for the heavy feeling of juice, press cantaloupes close to my face to catch that unmistakable scent of ripening fruit, close my eyes to envision the yellow bell peppers roasted and slightly charred, served alongside deep green arugula and a white dab of goat cheese. I read the labels, squeeze the bread, point to the particular piece of fish I want in a case full of seemingly identical filets.

The intensely sensory experience of food shopping made me think that buying groceries on the Internet was just another bad idea, a product of the irrational demand for www-dot-anything.

Not that I'm a Luddite. I love e-mail, participate in online discussions and even have my own domain. But I've never bought a book from Amazon.com, ordered cheap airplane tickets from priceline.com or bid on a Simpsons comic at eBay. It's not that I'm worried about credit-card fraud; encryption makes online buying more secure than paying for dinner at a local restaurant. I just didn't see any advantage to e-commerce.

But the news about HomeGrocer.com intrigued me. The Internet supermarket's services recently became available to net-savvy Portlanders; the company has been selling groceries online in Seattle for about a year. Amazon.com, the Internet bookseller that made the business community sit up and take a hard look at the potential of e-commerce, recently bought 35 percent of HomeGrocer.com. But it wasn't until my editor suggested that the company might be an interesting story--and he would pay for the groceries--that I typed in its URL.

Shopping on this Web site is straightforward. Find the asparagus or frozen waffles you want, click on the green "Buy" button, and the item is added to your virtual shopping cart. (As in a real store, sometimes the wheels on the cart are a little wobbly. The site is Java-heavy, so your browser must be able to handle the popular programming language.) There's not a lot of product information aside from the occasional photo. It would be nice to be able to read at least the federally required nutritional labels. A major site upgrade is in the works, so more information should be available soon.

I ordered a selection of perishable items, including tomatoes, milk, seafood, chicken and ice cream, to see how it would arrive. I found a few items that you might not see at your local store, such as organic salsa from Seeds of Change and kosher tahini. Things I hadn't seen outside of Seattle were also available, including the fruit-and-wine Seattle Sorbets (with flavors like blackberry-cabernet and blueberry-zinfandel) and oatmeal from Snoqualmie Falls Lodge.

The seafood offerings were impressive. I jumped on the halibut cheeks, tender morsels found just in front of the gills, and Copper River sockeye salmon. Along with the usual carrots and peas, the vegetable selection included two different kinds of arugula, the misshapen but delicious celery root, and lots of organically grown produce.

A few days later a shiny new truck emblazoned with HomeGrocer.com's peach logo pulled up right at the scheduled time. The ebullient driver brought a stack of plastic totes to the front door on a hand truck, then carried the groceries into my kitchen. The produce was beautiful, as nice as I could have picked out myself. Meat and seafood were wrapped in insulating plastic, a bunch of tulips arrived in a separate tote to avoid crushing, and a book of postage stamps came packed in a plastic to-go box (the amount of packaging, not all of which is reusable or recyclable, is a downside).

A couple of items didn't arrive, and a head of organic garlic that did was desiccated. I called the 800 number, and a make-up delivery arrived the next day. The real test came as we ate the food we'd 'netted. The apples were crisp and sweet, the oranges fat and juicy, the fish impeccably fresh. A loaf of Grand Central bread tasted just like the ones I buy at the bakery a few blocks away. Out of more than 60 different items, only the garlic was a disappointment. The replacement head was dried out, just like the first one.

Will I shop for groceries online again? It beats fighting the crowds at Fred Meyer, and you don't have put on your shoes, much less drive anywhere. Like most Internet firms, HomeGrocer.com has yet to make a profit, and it's tempting to take advantage of its lose-money, build-market-share strategy.

I won't give up visits to the local farmer's markets, though, where I can breathe in the scent of just-picked strawberries, soak up the deep colors of vine-ripened vegetables tinged with honest-to-God dirt and support growers and producers who are holding the sanitized, homogeneous, corporate version of American food at bay. But late at night, when I'm alone with the blue glow of my monitor and feel the need to stock up on ice cream, Italian mineral water or Reese's Peanut Butter Crunch Corn Puff cereal, I'll surf over to HomeGrocer.com.


URL: www.homegrocer.com

The first year's membership is free. The site lists a fee of $35/yr thereafter, but after a year of operation in Seattle there's still no charge for members. Delivery is free for orders over $75, $9.95 for less costly orders. If you're not home to accept a scheduled delivery, it'll cost you $19.95. You can schedule deliveries 2-9:30 pm Monday through Friday, 9:30 am-5 pm Sunday.

Deliveries come from a warehouse in Tualatin. HomeGrocer.com buys from local and national suppliers, just as any other grocery store does.

For information call (800) 688-0201 or send your questions to service@homegrocer.com


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Willamette Week | originally published July 7, 1999


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