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Daydream Nation

The City That Works It!

BY ZACH DUNDAS
zdundas@wweek.com

"Oh, hurry up--I've got to see the belly-dancers!"

Yes, it was a wild weekend around the world, what with radioactive Japanese battling Chechen mad-dogs for headlines, but in Portland we had more immediate concerns. Like, how long will it take to get a drink? Will there still be women in exotic native garb undulating in the next room after a beer comes to hand? And what's in those unlabeled bottles streaming across the bar at WW's Saturday after-hours party, anyway? What kind of off-brand hooch are these slimy journos foisting on Portland's best, brightest and most eagerly cockeyed as they jockey for position in the great post-North by Northwest shoulder-rubbing derby?

"Sure, sure, it's, uh, one of them microbrews...yeah--Hey, look, man, it's Thomas Lauderdale!"

The wrap-up fete at the space formerly known as LaLuna and Womb capped the fifth running of NXNW in fine style. Swaying Englishmen conducted high-level negotiations with stoic security dudes. The Sensualists, Portland's own post-pop mad scientists, nailed a rush-inducing set. The refined DJ skills of T Greenwood saw revelers through after the buffet had been reduced to a vista of stray calamari chunks and fruit spatter. As dawn threatened, a gang of Australians lustily demanded more action as the rest of the crowd reluctantly faced red-eyed reality. Victory, in short, was ours.

Whereas '98's NXNW seemed to leave everyone underwhelmed and restless, the pre-millennial edition marked a return to sloshy form for the 300-band blowout. Wristband sales and conference registrations both increased, and I, for one, found no shortage of festive buzz in the streets and clubs.

Thursday night served as a brisk warm-up for the calisthenics to come. After checking in on Hominy's sparkling country tag-team at Club 21 and the Baseboard Heaters' homegrown stomp at Zoot Suite (where the sound system provided some unwanted special FX), I spent the rest of the evening getting shellacked by the pinball machines at Ground Kontrol. The Southwest 12th Avenue retrocade seemed crowded by the addition of a small stage, but the Pabst was cold and the State Flowers strung together a solid set of rainy-day pop meditation. I poured quarters into Black Knight, to little avail.

The Dolomites' troublemaking stew of Irish blood and American passion provided a caffeinated kick-off to Friday's full course of mayhem. Kelly's Olympian, that little slice of Butte, Mont., nestled in downtown PDX, was a sweaty crush of Celtophiles. Only about four people could actually see the band, but the Dolos' street-born hybrid of ceilidh and riot-rock inspired folks to clamber up on tables and swarm the bar. Two hours later, the scene replayed in amplified form as L.A. hellions Flogging Molly whipped up a Hibernian frenzy--thankfully drowning out a certain music writer's slurred tirade on the subject of the "wild Irish."

An attempt to see Portland's No. 2 at the Roseland Main Room turned out to be something of a misadventure. The cavernous auditorium seemed particularly barren, with just 20 people and hard-sucking Atlanta idiots doubleDrive on hand. The over-amped grunge wannabes needed haircuts and a dose of good taste, while the "crowd" needed a trough of espresso--all told, about as much fun as a barbecue cosponsored by Alcoholics Anonymous and PETA.

Raucous Canadian rockabilly boys Bughouse Five provided solace at the Cobalt Lounge, where the Semi-Ironic Pomade Index hit an all-time high. After slithering back through Kelly's O for Flogging Molly, I hit Hungry Mob's well-rocking session at Zoot Suite. The Rose City hip-hop stalwarts survived muddled sound production to stamp their smooth beats, rhymes and lush singing deep into the crowd's collective consciousness.

Saturday, laden with fresh headache and heartbreak after watching my beloved Grizzlies blow it big-time against Portland State, I settled into the warm embrace of Seges' balcony. Oakland hip-hop diva Kofy Brown won me over with her muscular, emphatic set, which Seattle's Maroon Colony topped with a stinging hip-hop/bebop hook-up. After Friday's long campaign, it felt good to kick back in Seges' sophisticated confines--there were fellas in suits, even--and savor the moment before setting course for the last-hours bacchanal in Southeast.

It's no secret that wide swaths of Portland's music community harbor little love for the annual invasion of industry fools and hustling outlanders--and there are some good reasons for that. But as North by Northwest's 20th-century history ends, I'd offer that anything that runs a jolt through the city's veins is a good thing. At its most frenzied moments, NXNW '99 was a very good thing indeed. Now, may the normal course of civil society resume.



During Split Lip Rayfield's star turn at Saturday night's Satyricon showcase, two women stripped to the waist and paraded across the stage. One later returned with high hopes of achieving full nudity, but the crowd was so bent on demanding an encore from the Wichita country boys, no one much cared.

I checked in on the Webbers' annual anti-NXNW show at Produce Row. While the band's crackling outback rock has apparently been repeatedly spurned by the festival's talent scouts, I found plenty to dig as one Webber writhed on the floor and the rest tested the noise limits of the tight little club. God bless their cussed ways.

Portland International Airport police arrested two members of San Francisco's Gun & Doll Show, charging the rockers with littering for attempting to stick a poster to a pole. Lead singer Killian "Killer" MacGeraghty says he and GDS's guitarist were held for 18 hours, including eight spent in handcuffs. The Man sprung the miscreants in time for their sold-out show at Club 21 Friday.

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Willamette Week | originally published October 6, 1999

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