To be considered for listings, send information at least two weeks in advance to:
Dish, WW, 822 SW 10th Ave., Portland, OR 97205. Fax: 243-1115.

BY CARYN B. BROOKS
cbrooks@wweek.com


GENTLE READERS:

"It's a new buffet era," Paul Lee, general manager of Todai, told Miss Dish as he gestured toward the 160-foot Japanese seafood buffet he oversees at the newly expanded Pioneer Place mall. Miss Dish would have to agree. The city has been abuzz about this Cali-focused franchise coming to town with its stomach-boggling array of sushi, sashimi, tempura and much, much more. The buffet stretches the length of a small city block, and the lunchtime lines curl out the door. It's just like Las Vegas, but you don't have to gamble away 100 bucks in a smoky, pathetic casino to get a crummy comp. During her visit, Miss Dish eyeballed many a synthetic-panted secretary and loads of thin, beautiful (bulimic?) Japanese girls scarfing down overladen plates of cornucopia.

Still, Miss Dish had questions. She pulled Mr. Lee away from his entrance duties, where he resembles a frantic trader on the exchange floor rather than a mild-mannered maitre d', to find out how Todai Franchising, LLC, swims.

* Todai in Portland employs 140 people.

* The restaurant seats close to 1,000 people a day.

* When the all-important, "Is it really kosher to put raw fish on a buffet table?" question came up, Lee said the quick turnover rate makes it highly unlikely that the fish would go bad. "Freshness is not a problem," he says confidently.

* When asked what the most popular dishes are, Lee replied, "Sushi is very hot. And people fall in love with our desserts."

* The buffet boasts lobster for the dinner run, specifically Canadian lobster. There is a reason. "Japanese prefer Canadian lobster over all others," says Lee. He cites the texture of the crustaceans up north as the main reason.

* The Todai Corp. goes through 80,000 pounds of lobster a month.

* Do people plop their fat asses down and eat for hours on end? Yes, said Lee. Even in the first week of opening there have been people who stay from opening to closing. "That's OK," he says. "As long as they're having fun."

Rates to fill up at Todai:

$12.95
weekday lunch

$14.95
weekend lunch

$21.95
weekday dinner

$22.95
weekend dinner

Seniors over 65 get 20 percent off their dinner.

Todai plans to drop anchor in Seattle soon.

Miss Dish liked the green tea cheesecake.



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Willamette Week | originally published April 19, 2000

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