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She Won't Get Fooled Again!

BY CARYN B. BROOKS
cbrooks@wweek.com


Scooter McQuades
1321 SW Washington St.,
248-4060

GENTLE READERS,

Now, there are more than a few out there who might call Miss Dish a little gullible, but more often than not most recognize the First Lady of Grubbing as the sort with a finely tuned bullshit detector. So, it was somewhat of a surprise to many of Miss Dish's colleagues that she was almost taken.

You might blame the beer. Miss Dish had already downed a few when she found herself one recent evening at the quaint pub and cafe known as Scooter McQuades. While waiting for a grilled cheese sandwich and a Jell-O shot, she began reading the menu. There are many tales to be told in a simple menu, this much Miss Dish knew. On the back of a yellow two-folded mimeographed food list was a story titled "The History of the Coney Island." It read thus:

In the early 1900s, certain German immigrants settling in New York City opened shops and pubs to sell the tasty foods of their native country. One of these immigrants was young Heimlich Becken and his pretty wife, Gretchen. Gretchen was from a hardy stock of German restaurateurs, and with many family recipes and their culinary talents, their shop quickly became one of the most popular restaurants. Although folklore has it that Gretchen actually created the "coney" as we know it (a claim we cannot substantiate), it is suggested that Gretchen's coney recipe was the taste that skyrocketed the concoction to the fame that eventually named the entertainment park "Coney Island." This family secret was never marketed but was instead passed down to the Becken children; most recently to a certain daughter, Debbie.

With a focus on breaking Mrs. Debbie Boone of her probably long-held belief in the history of her family's sauce, Miss Dish assembled all the journalistic squeeze techniques in her back pocket.

Miss Dish ordered the controversial Coney dog, an enchilada-looking footlong red hot on an open bun and smothered in a sweetish red sauce studded with ground beef. A layer of melted cheese tucked the link into its bed. Good stuff. Debbie came out of the kitchen and Miss Dish confronted her. "So what year was Gretchen, this Coney creator, born?" Miss Dish asked. Debbie Boone broke down immediately with a hearty giggle. "Oh, my husband made that all up. He's very creative," she confessed.

Hmmm. How very post-modern. Let's create our culinary histories to fit our needs, shall we? It's so Matrix meets Dickens!

Turns out Debbie, born and raised in Astoria, has never been to New York. A couple of bartenders who had lived in Gotham helped her taste-test a few recipes she culled from reading chili books. The strangest ingredient? Apple vinegar. Ah, virtual reality--it can bite.

 

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