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PREVIEW
The Sailor Man
This Saturday, the Willamette's drawbridges will make way for the 20-Foot Man, a rusted, welded, guitar-slashing humanoid monument to the possibilities of weirdness.


BY ZACH DUNDAS
zdundas@wweek.com

photo by Kelley Hamby

The Utopian Barge Trip Featuring the 20 Foot Man, the Fairyland Puppet Show Castle and the Gone Orchestra
The Willamette River
Saturday, July 31
Free

The cruise begins at 1 pm at Cathedral Park by the St. Johns Bridge. After the barge flotilla departs, organizers recommend Waterfront Park and the Eastside walking path as vantage points. The trip climaxes at the Hawthorne Bridge at approximately 4 pm.
In the grimy halcyon days of the 19th century, the jack-tars of the Pacific would hit land, hoping for fun and love, only to be relieved of their hard-earned cash by the Rose City's saloon hustlers, sharpie gamblers and working girls. A few days of carousing? Hell, you'd be lucky if you didn't end your visit to Portland flat broke and busted, gazing numbly at the Willamette's deceptively calm waters from the deck of a slow boat to China.

The plight of the wave-tossed proletariat of yore would leave even the hardest salt aching for some self-expression--an impulse modern wage slaves can still feel through the fin de siècle haze of espresso steam. Couple that old urge with the trace amounts of untamed seaport energy still floating in Portland's air, and things start to happen. Weird things.

For instance: One morning, some people wake up possessed with the notion that they should build a man. A 20-Foot Man, fashioned out of corroding rebar and cast-away electronics. They decide that he should play a giant iron electric guitar. Eventually, these modern Prometheans feel the primal call of the water, source of all life. They decide their towering creation needs to float down the Willamette--and while they're at it, why not throw in an avant-garde improv jazz orchestra, a puppet castle and a dramatic finale that combines Don Quixote, Siddhartha and A Streetcar Named Desire?

Thus, the Utopian Barge Trip. As a strange flotilla carrying the rusty hulk of the 20-Foot Man proceeds at the Willamette's molasses pace, the Gone Orchestra, Portland's sonic pranksters, will provide an improv soundtrack drawing on its repertoire of organic jazz mayhem and well-wrought standards. The whole thing culminates with the Quixote-Sid-Desire pile-up at the Hawthorne Bridge.

John Henault and Josh Mong, keepers and builders of the 20-Foot Man, are the primary instigators of this pleasure cruise. With the help of certain accomplices, they've transformed a former schoolhouse in a sedate Southeast 'hood into their own looniness lab: The place teems with mechanical flotsam, found objects and homemade musical instruments. The iron-ribbed, cobwebbed torso of the 20-Foot Man presides over the fertile wreckage, waiting for the legs that will raise him to his advertised height when the time comes.

Henault and Mong are casual to the point of being blasé about this project. They'll happily detail various features of the 20-Foot Man--his moving arms, the huge guitar that really works, his flashing electric red eyes. The overarching question here, though, is why? They seem content to let people figure that out for themselves. Henault comes closest to offering a rationale.

"Why? Because you didn't do it," he declares, waving an accusatory finger at a visitor. "And we needed to see it."

Indeed, this whole utopian maritime enterprise has a certain Everest-like, because-it's-there feel to it. You have a river, you have barges and tugboats, you have freaky artists--put 'em together and see what happens. It certainly seems like a natural combination to Mong and Henault, who've raised hell on the Willamette before.

"We went down the river on an 8-by-12-foot barge during Rose Festival a few years ago," Mong recounts. "The S.S. Shit. We rode on by the Navy ships--the Navy's 'Just Say No' flagship was here, and we just floated right under the edges of it, with no one around. Then, we looked back and sailors were running all over the place. They were under the impression that we'd planted something underneath their boat, although I think they realized that if you were going to sabotage a ship, our little raft was not the vehicle to do it in."

In contrast to the S.S. Shit's voyage, the Utopian Barge Trip's down-river itinerary has been rubber-stamped by the necessary bureaucrats, with the Coast Guard insisting on a 12-person-per-barge limit. The 20-Foot Man's guitar-strumming arms and other moving parts will require the services of several swabbie-puppeteers, so space is limited. That crunch weighs on the Gone Orchestra, a free-flowing group that can have more than a dozen free-thinking improvisers going at it at once. There's talk of a separate barge just for keyboards.

Bill Larimer and Mike Mahaffey of the Gone Orchestra don't seem inconvenienced in the slightest, since taking it as it comes is the band's prime directive. The builders of the 20-Foot Man have plainly found high-concept kindred spirits in the Gone.

"I have an image of what the Gone Orchestra is," Mahaffey says. "They've got pictures of the sun, and the center is this bright, burning core. Every once in a while there'll be a prominence, and the prominence coming out from the core is the solo. In other jazz bands, the prominence is what it's all about, the solo is the core. The Gone Orchestra is the opposite of that."

Grandiose, to be sure, but the vision fits nicely with the crazed scale of the project. With the Gone Orchestra seeking the edge of sonic anarchy and the 20-Foot Man flailing majestically above it all, this three-hour tour of Portland's aquatic heart just may awaken some stormy ghosts of bygone craziness. Times have changed, but the madness stays the same.



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Willamette Week | originally published July 28, 1999

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