I've participated in slaughter. As a boy reared on a modest
farm, it was my job to hold the butcher's pail while the butcher
slopped in the quivering livers and cut tongues of cows. Slaughter
day was invariably a cold fall morning, and standing there
listening to the rifle blasts, the unoiled hoists, the chain
saws, and the clamor of excited dogs, it didn't take much
to convince me that a vegetarian lifestyle might be preferable.
There are many reasons why people choose vegetarianism. Ethical
questions about the use of animals are a primary factor for
some, as are environmental concerns. (It takes one acre of
land to raise 250 pounds of beef, while that same plot would
yield 50,000 pounds of tomatoes.) However, more people are
turning toward vegetarian diets for health reasons: Beefsteak
tomatoes are better for you than beefsteak.
This embracement of the green is hardly modern. The word
"vegetarian" was coined in 1847. Prior to that, vegetarians
were known as "Pythagoreans" after the Greek philosopher
Pythagoras, who believed in the transmigration of souls
between man and beast. The Vegetarian Society was soon founded
and, as in all societies, factionalism flourished. Some
members of the society believed that nothing produced by
animals should be eaten, including honey. These members
were known as "total vegetarians" until 1944, when the word
"vegan" was coined.
Having been a vegan for three years, I can attest to the
difficulty of dining out. But Portland does have a number
of excellent cafes that cater to vegans. Paradox Palace
Cafe (3439 SE Belmont St., 232-7508) is the place to
go for a delicious, drippy vegan Reuben made with seasoned
tempeh smothered in sauerkraut. Right down the street is
Sweetwater's Jam House (3350 SE Morrison St., 233-0333),
where brisk fall nights make their crisp plantains and hearty
bowls of steaming black beans seem to be the best idea on
the planet. Nicholas Restaurant (381 SE Grand Ave.,
235-5123), an amazing Lebanese spot, is often vegan central.
You can order a seven-course mezza platter with hummus and
baba ghanouj, all veganized. Vegans in the know also flock
to Accuardi's Old Town Pizza Company (226 NW Davis
St., 222-9999), where you can order a Dragon Lady pizza
with tomato, capers, onion and artichoke hearts, though
be sure to stress that you want it vegan when you order
it (Accuardi's will also bake your pizza with soy cheese
if you bring it in).
Yes, vegetarians and vegans are well set-up when it comes
to low-cost dining. But is it possible to be a vegan in
Portland's finer establishments? Surprisingly, yes. Granted,
you'll want to cross the street to avoid Ruth's Chris Steakhouse,
but otherwise, it's feast rather than famine.
At Wildwood Restaurant & Bar (1221 NW 21st Ave.,
248-9663), chef Cory Schreiber offers a daily vegetarian
entree among the many Northwest-focused dishes that easily
can be transformed into a vegan dish. I'm a fan of Wildwood's
risotto, which combines the tender rice with seasonal vegetables.
I once had a risotto there that commingled hazelnuts, apples
and broccoli, reminding me of the start of school and all
things cozy. "There are vegans among my restaurant staff,"
says Schreiber, "and I try to be conscious of their needs."
Pazzo Ristorante (627 SW Washington St., 228-1515)
is home to heart-clogging Italian fare, but you can always
order an excellent roasted vegetable dish and some polenta
on the side.
The most encouraging news is that Portland's premier restaurant,
Genoa (2832 SE Belmont Ave., 238-1464), is extremely
accommodating. You'd think a restaurant that serves prix
fixe seven-course meals based on regional Italian cuisine
would have a hard time meeting a vegan's requirements, but
not so. "We do need 48 hours' notice to prepare," says co-owner
and chef Cathy Whims, "but we offer a four-course vegan
dinner, though sometimes we can create a full seven-course."
The image of the Birkenstock-shod sprout-muncher is an
outdated one, as there are plenty of us who still desire
tablecloths and china without the flesh that often accompanies
these settings. For vegans with a refined palate, Portland
is a mecca.
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Willamette Week | originally
published October 13,
1999
|
