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Shake Down

BY CHRISTINA MELANDER
melander@wweek.com

Photo of New Salem Sue, a fiberglass cow in North Dakota,
by Rebecca Shook

Milk may do a body good, but milkshakes can be mind-bending. Here's a quickie guide to separate the orgasmic from the qualmish.

NOTE: For consistency's sake, I tried chocolate shakes at each establishment.

BURGERVILLE
($1.60, $1.85, $2.25, $3.25; various locations)

As sure as it makes fish and chips with actual halibut and strawberry shortcake with fresh berries, B-ville crafts an authentic milkshake devoid of the chemical tinge found in other fast-food shakes. It's a little on the sweet side but not too syrupy.

BEN & JERRY'S ICE CREAM & FROZEN YOGURT
($3.25, $3.75; various locations)

Known for its boggling richness, Ben & Jerry's serves up a shake that is more subtle than sinful. It isn't as chocolaty as others, but the supremely clean taste is truly refreshing, and it doesn't leave a sour-milk aftertaste. Plus, it doesn't turn to soup too quickly.

MOONSTRUCK CHOCOLATIER
($3.95; various locations)

The clear victor. After all, chocolate is Moonstruck's specialty. It gets away with using vanilla ice cream because it's mixed with dark Moonstruck chocolate that lends a piquant semisweet taste. This masterpiece also wins for best presentation: It's finished off with whipped cream and chocolate shavings, topped with a Moonstruck chocolate disk. The aftertaste is one of cocoa, not ice cream or milk. Get thee to a Moonstruck.

BASKIN-ROBBINS
($2.95, $3.50; various locations)

Poor Baskin-Robbins. Before the Moonstruck liquid gold passed my lips, I was loving B-R's excellent chocolate shake. You may think of this oldie as a tired strip-mall fixture, but believe me, the people at Baskin-Robbins know what to do with those 31 flavors. The chocolate shake is made with extra-rich chocolate ice cream the color of Cleopatra's eyes. It's a super-duper shake, but it gets watery a little too quickly.

COFFEE PEOPLE
($3.35, $3.95; various locations)

Coffee People blends a number of stunningly satisfying beverages, but the chocolate shake isn't one of them. It's surprising that a company that makes wicked coffee drinks puts forth such a lame chocolate number with barely a hint of cocoa. Fortunately, CP does serve a powerful peanut butter shake that can easily double as a meal. All shakes are topped with real whipped cream.

ROBERTO'S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM
($2.75, $3.25; 921 SW Morrison St., 224-4234)

I believe this was the only shake in the crop served with a spoon--which comes in handy to fish out the ice cream lumps. This one instantly lost points in the ingredient department, though: It's made of vanilla ice cream flavored with chocolate sauce, so of course it doesn't deliver the proper anandamide punch. Roberto's staff will mix your drink to custom thickness.

HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM SHOPPE
(prices vary shop to shop, $3.50 to $4.25; various locations)

Premium cream comes with sophisticated service: a chocolate shake can be made with either vanilla or chocolate ice cream, which is then weighed to ensure a by-the-book measurement. Naturally, this shake has a smooth, dreamy flavor and is quite frothy and light--this may be the closest West-coasters will ever get to a Friendly's Fribble. But all that whipped airiness means your hearty shake gets watery too soon. Bonus: HD is open late compared with other shops.



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Willamette Week | originally published June 30, 1999


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