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LOCATION PROFILE

Carafe

(503) 248-0004
200 SW Market St
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Neighborhood: Downtown

Portland was dubbed “Stumptown” in the 1850s as clear-cutting made way for rapid growth and left behind only stumps. (read more) Now, the joke goes, the name riffs off the size of our skyscrapers (the tallest, Wells Fargo Center at 1300 SW 5th Ave., is just 546 feet). Downtown may not have reached epic heights, but on the upside, it remains a living, breathing neighborhood as well as a nexus of political and financial power. Where else in town can you find an uptight lawyer, a Prada-wearing shopper on her way to Pioneer Place (700 SW 5th Ave.) and a street kid with a spiked mohawk, all standing at the same burrito cart? Downtown centers on Pioneer Courthouse Square (Southwest 6th Avenue and Morrison Street), an urban tabula rasa hosting everything from brew festivals to peace marches. Downtown’s architecture ranges from the triumph of the classical Multnomah County Central Library (801 SW 10th Ave., 988-1523) to the tragedy of the postmodern Portland Building (1120 SW 5th Ave.), whose saving grace is the gargantuan bronze Portlandia statue out front. Follow the South Park Blocks past the Portland Art Museum (1219 SW Park Ave., 226-2811) to Portland State University (1825 SW Broadway), where hungover students collide with shoppers at Portland Farmers Market (Southwest Park Avenue between Harrison and Montgomery streets) every Saturday. At Gov. Tom McCall Waterfront Park (Southwest Naito Parkway between Southwest Harrison and Northwest Glisan streets), inline skaters and recumbent cyclists blow past pot dealers and flocks of Canada geese, while the blocks just west of the Burnside Bridge house the core of the city’s live music scene as well as the pioneering strip bar Mary’s Club (129 SW Broadway, 227-3023). —James Pitkin.

Featured in Restaurant Guide 2009

Portland’s answer to the archetypal French bistro, Carafe resides inconspicuously on an obscure block in downtown Portland directly across from the Keller Auditorium. While Carafe is an ideal way to start or cap a night out, it’s also a destination in and of itself. One night’s special appetizer arrived as a mound of chanterelles sautéed with shallots, spilled over grilled bread and topped with a poached farm egg. Sopping up mingled yolk and mushroom pan drippings might be the best use of bread ever. With a deft balance of savory and sweet, duck confit was a fitting follow-up, the ruby-fleshed breast perched atop a buttery potato cake and ringed with grilled peaches and Padrón peppers. Carafe’s burger, served on a Ken’s Artisan Bakery bun with custardlike housemade mayonnaise, consistently earns high marks, but on our last visit it was far too salty. Perhaps the addition of bacon and white cheddar were to blame. Try it first at happy hour when, salty or not, it’s a steal at $4.95. Don’t forget to scope the wine list, which is full of bottles under $30, and watch for Carafe’s rotating three-course prix fixe menu, only $25.
Order this: Crispy outside, moist inside duck confit.
Best deal: Burgundies and local pinots under $35, some of the lowest markups in town.
I’ll pass: Carafe’s over-salted burger.

ETHAN SMITH

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