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Sel Gris

503 517-7770
1852 SE Hawthorne Blvd.
www.selgrisrestaurant.com
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Neighborhood: Hawthorne

If Southeast has a main street, Hawthorne is it. The busy boulevard is divided evenly between three neighborhoods, each with its own standout bars, restaurants and shops. (read more) The first, from the riverfront to Southeast 20th Avenue, is home to Multnomah County’s offices; the Barley Mill Pub (1629 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-1492), the first of the McMenamin brothers’ brewpub empire; CineMagic Theatre (2021 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-7919), a one-screen independent movie house; and two extraordinary restaurants, Mediterranean stalwart Castagna (1752 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-7373) and nouveau-French newbie Sel Gris (1852 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 517-7770). The most familiar section of the street is the retail-heavy and condo-spawning stretch between Southeast 25th and 39th avenues, where neo-hippies share the streets with neo-yuppies. Here you’ll find the beery Bagdad Theater (3702 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-9234); the kid sister of Powell’s Books, Powell’s on Hawthorne (3723 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 235-3802); the Portland Hawthorne Hostel (3031 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-3380) and cute crêperie Chez Machin (3553 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 736-9381). Past 39th, the street grows wider and quieter. Stop by ultra-serious pizzeria Apizza Scholls (4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-1286), then head on to a cluster of excellent bars: sexy Sapphire Hotel (5008 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 232-6333), cavernous Mount Tabor Legacy (4811 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 232-0450) and Sputnik-era time capsule The Space Room (4800 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 235-6957). —Ben Waterhouse.

Also in Hawthorne neighborhood:
Featured in Restaurant Guide 2009

There’s no doubt about the food at Sel Gris, WW’s 2008 Restaurant of the Year and a culinary inspiration in an unassuming section of Hawthorne. But Sel Gris is so much more than a restaurant—it’s an opportunity to watch master chef Daniel Mondok at work. The best seats in the notoriously small dining room are at the bar, just a few feet from the kitchen, where you can observe the preparation of each dish before it’s served. Mondok specializes in rich, decadent offerings: “salt-and-pepper” calamari served with Thai basil and the sweet-acidic dash of preserved lemons; thick risotto with truffles and a fried egg on top; an assortment of foie gras. For a fancy joint, Sel Gris doesn’t skimp on the portions, either, which leaves you both completely full and totally satisfied.
Order this: The bay scallops, quickly seared and served with gnocchi and creamy corn pudding.
Best deal: “Salt-and-pepper” calamari, a plate so big it’s hard for a couple to finish.
I’ll pass: Dessert, because you’ll be far too full by then.

Michael Mannheimer

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