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March 10th, 2010 NICK ZUKIN | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2010

     
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Beaverton’s Aloha Mall is a nexus of good eats. That’s not sarcasm. With two of outer-PDX’s best taco trucks (Ely’s and Mexico Lindo), plus this Salvadoran gem, it truly is. The sopa de pata ($9) is heavily seasoned, but gelatin-rich with odorless tripe and vegetables permeating the flavor of the broth. Platanos fritos ($4) are cooked until almost black, tasting of banana and caramel. Their tamal ($2) is moist, creamy and flavorful. The yuca frita ($8) comes with a choice of pescaditos or chicharrón. They also serve up one of Portland’s best sandwiches, the pan relleno ($4), a sub stuffed with a tomatoey chicken stew that will drip down your arm. And then you’ll greedily lick that arm clean.

 
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