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March 10th, 2010 Heather Logan | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2010

     
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Originally born in central Europe, the flavor-packed kolache has immigrated to Southeast Portland, thanks to this gem of a cafe. Sparrow’s yeasted dough buns actually hail from the owners’ Texas hometowns (first Houston, then Austin), which both boast large numbers of Czech immigrants. All sorts of things gooey, creamy or even meaty are stuffed inside these buns—from Nutella ($1.95) or Portland-centric salmon and cream cheese ($2.50) to barbecued pulled pork ($2.25) or a “vegan delight” garden loaf ($2.25). The sausage and Tillamook cheese ($1.95) kolache is a soft, slightly sweet dough ball that reveals warm, oozy cheese and perfectly cooked sausage “smokies” with every bite.

 
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