Despite the hoity name, saisons are
workin’ man’s beer, originally intended as crisp, low-gravity
refreshment for the pitchfork-wielding farmhands moving Monet’s
haystacks around. The late British beer writer Michael Jackson fretted
about the anachronistic Walloon style’s survival, but Belgophiles
rallied and saisons are now on full swole. Hood River’s new Logsdon
Farmhouse Ales, the eponymous label from Full Sail’s original brewer
(who is apparently either ignorant or contemptuous of Le Googlez) is
only making “Seizoen.” So far there are three varieties, four if you
count the excellent Fresh Hop version, which simply subs in just-plucked
Oregon hops. From the tap at Saraveza and a bottle procured from
Sellwood’s Portland Bottle Shop ($10.50), the beer pours the muted
yellow of a pale daffodil with a big, rocky head. A long farmhand-style
swig shows the bright, nipping nose precedes lots of lemon zest and
blooming rosiness. Recommended.

