We tend to think of beers as either consistent or flawed. Either it’s the same brew we fell in love with or there’s an interloper hiding behind a trusted tap handle. We forget that beer is an agricultural product, made with hops and barley that vary from harvest to harvest, and that better brewers also tinker with each batch. Which brings us to RPM IPA from Bend’s Boneyard Beer. I’ve heard people complain that RPM has changed since it took over tap lines across Portland. Yes, the beer has gradually dropped to 6.5 percent ABV from 7.0, says Boneyard brewmaster Tony Lawrence, and the RPM you find around town is often a little younger than he’d like. But Lawrence is pretty happy with the way he blended hop varieties from last season’s crop—and so am I. The current batch is the best Oregon IPA I’ve had in a long time, crisp and fresh with huge grapefruit and cannabis flavors. I’ve probably had 10 pints of it, and I’m not the type who orders the same beer twice. Recommended.