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Sept. 14, 1990: A new restaurant opens at the corner of Northwest 21st Avenue and Glisan Street...

40th Anniversary
Indulge me a moment. It was 1990, and I was reviewing Zefiro for the paper. My first line was: “This may be THE place.” I meant not only that this restaurant heralded something novel in town   More
Wednesday, November 5, 2014 Roger Porter

Big Cheese

Featured Stories
I've lived in Paris three different years, each time across the street from a great cheese monger. These are the kind of shops where, if you request some Pouligny-St. Pierre, the clerk asks if you're ...   More
Wednesday, July 5, 2006 Roger Porter

Corner Renaissance

A local trattoria reveals the high and low of Italian eats.

Food Reviews & Stories
The Italian Renaissance comes in two flavors: There's the "high" art of Michelangelo and the "low" art of Lucrezia Borgia. Restaurant Renaissance sadly leans to the baser version. You can find a dish ...   More
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 Roger Porter

Island Bites

Caribbean cuisine sans the airfare, at Callaloo.

Food Reviews & Stories
There are no trade winds at the corner of Northwest 17th Avenue and Glisan Street. But if you duck into Callaloo, the new venture from Capitol Coffeehouse owners Kevin and Colleen Peck, you'll spot la ...   More
Wednesday, May 31, 2006 Roger Porter

Grecian Formula

Blue Olive delivers a wealth of traditional eats, but few surprises.

Food Reviews & Stories
I have Greek friends who think of their cuisine as entrenched and invariable from restaurant to restaurant. With few exceptions, they say, if you've seen one you've seen 'em all. But there are startli ...   More
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 Roger Porter

A Tale Of Two Kitchens

Whether they're behind the butcher-shop counter or cooking brunch in a former rock club, a trio of local chefs provide an extravaganza for serious eaters.

Featured Stories
This is a tale of two kitchens. One you'd never notice, since it's only used to cook ingredients that make their way into the deli cases of Viande Meats & Sausage, a grocery-store meat counter that pr ...   More
Wednesday, March 15, 2006 Roger Porter

Roman Roulette

A mixed verdict on the beautiful but prosaic Balvo.

Food Reviews & Stories
One of the world's great cooks, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, owns several New York restaurants whose titles are pieces of his name, or nickname: Vong, Jean Georges, and Jo-Jo. The superb chef of Portlan ...   More
Wednesday, March 8, 2006 Roger Porter

The Italian Job

Sellwood longtimer Assaggio needs to work out some kinks.

Food Reviews & Stories
When Assaggio opened in the early '90s, many Portlanders had not learned to say pasta; "spaghetti" was their word, and canned tomato the sauce. So the Sellwood neighborhood restaurant's signature styl ...   More
Wednesday, February 15, 2006 Roger Porter

Paris, Portland

Fenouil imports French elegance to the Pearl District.

Food Reviews & Stories
Perched on the north side of Jamison Square, 2-month-old Fenouil is already the most glamorous restaurant in the city. If you sit upstairs and look out on the gleaming lights below and across the clas ...   More
Wednesday, January 25, 2006 Roger Porter

Mama Knows Best?

Where's the pastrami, the tongue, the brisket, the knishes?

Food Reviews & Stories
There are two culinary empires in this town: ripe, whose patron spirit is often dada, and Lisa Schroeder's, whose patron saint is always mama. On the same downtown block that already houses her Mother ...   More
Wednesday, January 11, 2006 Roger Porter
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