Willamette Week - http://www.wweek.com/portland/articles.sec-1459-1-.html Mon, 03 Aug 2015 00:00:00 -0700 en hourly 1 Top Five Restaurants of 2014: Number 3, Ataula - A new best tapas in town. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23206-top_five_restaurants_of_2014_number_3_ataula_a_new_best_tapas_in_town.html Ataula celebrated its one-year anniversary in late August, with flamenco music and dance. The packed house was rollicking, which says a lot since this was a Wednesday night in the barely noticea]]> Jerk-Off - Me want dried meat. What brand best http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-19545-jerk_off_me_want_dried_meat_what_brand_best.html Beef jerky is a primal pleasure. Drying meat for storage was practical for cave dwellers, of course, but we keep making it in an era of refrigerators because there’s something satisfying about g]]> A Very Stout Ox - Ox is more than a steakhouse with a sexy spanish accent. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-19412-a_very_stout_ox_ox_is_more_than_a_steakhouse_with_a_sexy_spanish_accent.html The chef looks pissed. Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton has her hands on her hips in the narrow walkway leading from Ox’s enclosed main kitchen to the restaurant’s 50-seat dining room. Sweat trickl]]> Square Peg - Jamison has ambition, a view and little else. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-19720-square_peg_jamison_has_ambition_a_view_and_little_else.html The one enduring positive at the restaurant now known as Jamison is a location that maximizes the seasonal joy of al fresco dining. On the enclosed patio at the edge of Jamison Square in Northwe]]> Bravo Barcelona - Ataula is the best westside Spanish joint in a generation. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21472-bravo_barcelona_ataula_is_the_best_westside_spanish_joint_in_a_generation.html Let’s not call Ataula, the 3-month-old rookie venture from Barcelona-born chef Jose Chesa, a “neighborhood restaurant.” To my ear, that’s code for mediocrity, the kind of place you’d vis]]> Way Off-Key - Quartet tries to bring true fine dining to Portland. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-20574-way_off_key_quartet_tries_to_bring_true_fine_dining_to_portland.html In this unicorns-and-rainbows town, all the food carts are fabulous, and free-spirited chefs never fail to deliver mealtime magic on the cheap. Sycophants cheer the indie scene with the shrill fer]]> Knives Out - Notorious chef Morgan Brownlow resurfaces at Tasty N Alder. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-20219-knives_out_notorious_chef_morgan_brownlow_resurfaces_at_tasty_n_alder.html The rap on Morgan Brownlow is that he’s brutal on pastry chefs. During his tenure at Clarklewis, Brownlow even fired one just as dinner service was starting. The Portland-raised Brownlow cou]]> The Taco Trail - ¿Donde debemos comer en Woodburn? http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-22982-the_taco_trail_%C2%BFdonde_debemos_comer_en_woodburn.html Woodburn wears a lot of sombreros. Shoppers stop at the town north of Salem for its outlet mall. Gearheads go for the drag strip. Foodniks know the majority-Latino town as the state’s mecca of]]> Castagna: Restaurant Guide 2014 - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23224-castagna_restaurant_guide_2014_.html 1752 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-7373, castagnarestaurant.com [MODERN GARDEN] Under chef Justin Woodward, the elegant, modernist-leaning Castagna is as good as it's ever been.]]> Second Rodeo - Rodney Muirhead’s La Taq rides herd. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21594-second_rodeo_rodney_muirheads_la_taq_rides_herd.html Grub-wise, Texas is best known for two things. First, there’s barbecue, which the Lone Star State does better than anyone. Second, there’s that vaguely defined cuisine de gringo known as “]]> Restaurant Guide 2013: Aviary - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21273-restaurant_guide_2013_aviary_.html Pok Pok: Restaurant Guide 2014 - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23275-pok_pok_restaurant_guide_2014_.html 3226 SE Division St., 232-1387, pokpokpdx.com. [THAI ROYALTY] Less than 10 years ago, Andy Ricker was a guy in a shack on sleepy Division Street slinging transcendent Thai-]]> Hail Caesar - Where to get the emperor of salads. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-20003-hail_caesar_where_to_get_the_emperor_of_salads.html Even the most carnivorous among us concede there’s something special about a Caesar salad. It could be a nostalgic association with haute tableside service, or perhaps it’s the body’s occa]]> Go Fish - A meat eater dives deep into Davy Jones’ Locker. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23613-go_fish_a_meat_eater_dives_deep_into_davy_jones_locker.html This fall, I idiotically pledged to become a fish eater for 31 days. No good reason. I like seafood, I thought, so how hard could it be? But once you’ve told anyone about a resolution—wh]]> Restaurant Guide 2013: Noisette - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21325-restaurant_guide_2013_noisette_.html Tarad Thai: Restaurant Guide 2014 - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23291-tarad_thai_restaurant_guide_2014_.html 601 SE Morrison St., 234-4102, taradpdx.com [NEXT-TIER THAI] Remember why you're here: damn good renditions of several Thai standards, a few offerings with a little added ]]> Good Fishing - Fish Sauce brings solid Vietnamese to Northwest. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-20334-good_fishing_fish_sauce_brings_solid_vietnamese_to_northwest.html In a gauzy dream sequence, I am beckoned to a remote area of town to check out a dingy, under-the-radar ethnic joint where every dish is a stunning success of bright, bold, exotic flavors. I’m t]]> Restaurant Guide 2013: Fish Sauce - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21299-restaurant_guide_2013_fish_sauce_.html A Broken Spoke - Township & Range is a pedestrian addition to Ladd’s. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-20977-a_broken_spoke_township_range_is_a_pedestrian_addition_to_ladds.html Southeast Portland’s leafy Ladd’s Addition neighborhood is spoiled. Its stately homes are set back from tall oaks lining a Eurocool hub-and-spoke compass of streets that radiate out from the]]> Restaurant Guide 2013: Chennai Masala - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21286-restaurant_guide_2013_chennai_masala_.html Restaurant Guide 2013: Chiang Mai - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21287-restaurant_guide_2013_chiang_mai_.html Szechuan Chef: Restaurant Guide 2014 - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23288-szechuan_chef_restaurant_guide_2014_.html 5331 SW Macadam Ave., 227-3136, szechuanchef.us [MEET THE HEAT] Szechuan Chef is all kinds of unlikely. Not only is it excellent food in the demilitarized zone of southwest]]> Restaurant Guide 2013: Maharaja - http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-21317-restaurant_guide_2013_maharaja_.html Battered and Fried - Batter Griddle & Drinkery is sloppy drunk food. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-24992-battered_and_fried_batter_griddle_drinkery_is_sloppy_drunk_food.html If Cheech and Chong opened a restaurant honoring their weed-humor heyday, I’m certain it would bear an uncanny resemblance to Batter Griddle & Drinkery. Batter, which opened to much fanfare in M]]> Sum Boke Brunch - Boke Bowl’s westside location enters the dim sum game. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23977-sum_boke_brunch_boke_bowls_westside_location_enters_the_dim_sum_game.html No cuisine is pure and unadulterated. The walls historically separating one group’s food culture from another’s have always been porous, riven and worn by prevailing trade routes and battl]]>