The Deep Cuts

Okra stew, lamb sausage and pumpkin kibbeh at TarBoush Glisan.


Food Reviews & Stories
Everyone wants the hummus. That, and grilled meat —lamb shawarma is the most popular dish, but chicken and beef kebabs are huge sellers. And so the waiter working the nine tables at TarBoush   More
 
Wednesday, July 16, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Restaurant Review: Storrs Smokehouse


Food Reviews & Stories
Breakfast is a reassuring sign at a barbecue joint. Even if you’re not in the mood for early-morning biscuits and gravy, it’s always good to see the pitmaster hanging around the kitchen ju   More
 
Wednesday, July 9, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Restaurant Review: Stammtisch

Bring an army to Stammtisch. Feed it beer.


Food Reviews & Stories
At Stammtisch, you want numbers. The new German tavern from the proprietors of North Mississippi Avenue’s Prost doesn’t demand it—a couple can get a very date-night meal seated on the square   More
 
Wednesday, June 25, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Russia With Love

Kachka brings serious comfort fare with a wink and a shot.


Food Reviews & Stories
Russia is for writers, a place of tawdry sentimentalism and deep irony. This flavors even the food. So it is no surprise that the new, Russian-inspired Kachka has a high-art reverence for nostalgi   More
 
Wednesday, June 11, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Return Of the Taq

Taqueria Nueve is actually as good as everyone remembers it.


Food Reviews & Stories
Portlanders are sentimental. When a food-cart pod closes, they cry. When a bowling alley is replaced by a hardware store, they moan. When a goat   More
 
Wednesday, June 4, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Atlas Pizza


Food Reviews & Stories
Metalheads who drive Chevy Cavaliers have long been the unsung heroes of the American pizza industry. Some guys in Austin figured that out 20 years ago, opening a place called Hoek’s Death Met   More
 
Wednesday, May 28, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

False Priest

Reverend’s BBQ doesn’t bring deliverance to Sellwood.


Food Reviews & Stories
The dining desert of Sellwood needs some salvation. Sure, there are a few great old standbys, yet Sellwood-Westmoreland remains the wealthiest neighborhood on the east side where you have to dri   More
 
Wednesday, May 21, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Secret of the Uz

A big jagshemash to East Portland’s Uzbekistan restaurant.


Food Reviews & Stories
It’s tough to keep all those ’Stans straight, huh? If you can name all seven such-suffixed nations, well, you’re worldlier than me. Those Central Asian nations conquered by Mongol khans, t   More
 
Wednesday, May 14, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

New, the Noun

La Panza Cafe serves the best New Mexican in town.


Food Reviews & Stories
New Mexico is a state of many enchanting perils, with meth and frybread at the top of the list. The state’s cuisine—cowboy meets Chicano in a smoky haze of fresh-roasted local chilies—does   More
 
Wednesday, May 7, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Oslo in the Summertime

Dinner at Broder Nord is pleasant but strangely quiet.


Food Reviews & Stories
There’s an instinctual pause before reaching for the door handle. There’s scant proof of life behind the window. But back at the curb, a sandwich board advertises openness. The door gives. App   More
 
Wednesday, April 2, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

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