Hand-Me-Down

Trinket serves cheery brunch in a dim den of horns and silver.


Food Reviews & Stories
In August, wild-eyed chef Eric Bechard surrendered the Kingdom of Roosevelt after only six months in business. The ambitious native-foods menu apparently out-weirded Portland with wood-pigeon live   More
 
Wednesday, December 18, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Punch Out

Micah Camden’s Boxer Ramen delivers quick, hard jabs.


Food Reviews & Stories
Micah Camden’s strategy isn’t much of a mystery. You see it in action at the restaurateur’s most successful venture, Little Big Burger, which has a simple menu built from a small pantry of   More
 
Wednesday, December 11, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Second Rodeo

Rodney Muirhead’s La Taq rides herd.


Food Reviews & Stories
Grub-wise, Texas is best known for two things. First, there’s barbecue, which the Lone Star State does better than anyone. Second, there’s that vaguely defined cuisine de gringo known as “   More
 
Wednesday, December 4, 2013 MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

Both Ends Burning

Roman Candle by day and by night.


Food Reviews & Stories
In the morning, Roman Candle tends to be busy, all four planks of communal walnut splattered with laptops and coffee mugs. The brightly lit room is inviting from the street—warm smells and white   More
 
Wednesday, November 13, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Bravo Barcelona

Ataula is the best westside Spanish joint in a generation.


Food Reviews & Stories
Let’s not call Ataula, the 3-month-old rookie venture from Barcelona-born chef Jose Chesa, a “neighborhood restaurant.” To my ear, that’s code for mediocrity, the kind of place you’d vis   More
 
Wednesday, November 6, 2013 MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

Hat Trick

Tasty N Alder is John Gorham’s latest great restaurant.


Food Reviews & Stories
Much like a Montessori school, Portland chef John Gorham seems to operate on a three-year development cycle. His Northeast Russell Street tapas joint Toro Bravo—famed for its slow-marinated, t   More
 
Wednesday, October 23, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Restaurant Review: El Cubo de Cuba


Food Reviews & Stories
Little Havana’s Cuban restaurants feel strangely uptight, like they’re run by Republicans. One of the best lunches I’ve had all year, at the Versailles Bakery in Miami, was marred by the u   More
 
Wednesday, October 9, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Hispanica Incognita

Rough-cut Mexican restaurant Prehispanica still excels in places.


Food Reviews & Stories
Just one block south of Tasty n Alder and across from Saint Cupcake, at the dusty frontier of the past year’s West End restaurant boom, lies something vanishingly rare in Portland: an upscale-   More
 
Wednesday, October 2, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Grassa-Fed Cattle

Wait in line, get some oily pasta.


Food Reviews & Stories
Grassa and Lardo share more than just a back door. Rick Gencarelli’s new housemade pasta restaurant is indeed adjoined to the West End outpost of his sandwich empire, which is expanding even fas   More
 
Wednesday, September 4, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Hook, Sinker

Trent Pierce’s Block and Tackle contains bright surprises, dull familiars.


Food Reviews & Stories
Trent Pierce’s Block and Tackle—in the former Wafu space—is like a four-eye butterflyfish. That is to say, it’s hard to tell where its head is. On the one hand, Block and Tackle is the   More
 
Wednesday, August 21, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

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