Little T American Baker
7 am-5 pm Monday-Saturday, 8 am-2 pm Sunday.
[YANKEE INGENUITY] Little T must be approached from the rear left. Unlike the bread- filled baskets, warm colors and Francophilic stylings of Portland’s other artisan bakeries, the curiously neomodern design of baker Tim Healea’s store places all the bread on display in a stark window cavity in the building’s left-hand window, like some sort of conceptual public art installation. The result—rustic brown loaves almost glowing from inside a plain glass tank—is quite striking from the outside. But inside, it’s a pain in the ass, as you dislocate your neck to take a gander at the day’s offerings. It’s worth the extra effort. Healea’s gloriously crusty breads are some of the best in town, and certainly the most interesting. The sourdough house loaf made with beer and rye flour; the addictive, baguette-shaped pretzel bread;
and the ciabatta rolls made with seven-grain cereal and carrot all thumb their nose at tradition, as if to sneer, “This is not your frou- frou French boulangerie. This is A-merican baking!” Fuck yeah. (RB)
Shopping list: “Long skinny” baguettes, focaccialike “slab” breads, pastries.