727 SE Washington St., 235-8180, beakerandflask.com. 

[DINNER & DRINKS] Lacking signage and located on a grayish industrial corner just off Southeast Sandy Boulevard, Beaker & Flask does not readily lend itself to a cohesive first impression. Is it a warehouse? A design studio? A car-dealership showroom? A peek inside does nothing to mitigate the confusion, revealing extensive use of concrete and chalkboard paint, chromed diner-style tables and chairs, and an enormous curved bar populated by a handful of middle-aged men in Tommy Bahama shirts who may or may not want to sell you a Honda. In any case, it was from this very bar, topped somewhat incongruously with homey-looking canned preserves, that we received some of the best cocktails we’d ever tasted. Keep in mind, though, these cocktails are strictly for grown-ups—nothing is blended with ice, or contains schnapps, or is even particularly sweet. (Highly recommended is the Devil in a Boot—a warming mix of smoky blended and single-malt scotch, Cynar and orange liqueur with a strip of orange peel.) The food menu is equally spectacular, offering a mix of deftly executed small and large plates such as a medium-rare grilled beef shoulder with spinach and roasted fingerling potatoes, an already addictive combination topped with a festive tuft of fried leeks. I’m still not sure what Beaker & Flask is selling, but whatever it is, I’m buying. KAT MERCK.

Ideal meal: Tails & Trotters pork belly with green beans, pesto and Manila clams. 

Best deal: The seared quail on a bed of arugula, fennel and strawberries with basil pesto is a picture-perfect summer meal.

5 -11 pm Monday-Saturday. $$$