If you’re a novice to Lebanese cuisine, the food at Karam makes you feel right at home. Basics are executed quite well—silky tahini, pillows of warmed pita, and the effortless brilliance that is the restaurant’s hummus. If you’re hungry for something other than chickpeas, there’s a large menu and a staff willing to take you through it. Many dinner offerings are available at lunch at a lower price but sacrifice little in portion or flavor. Pumpkin kibbe ($9.95) is quite good, offering a hearty, crunchy and well-spiced meal. Some of the kebab meats can be tough, and the veggie grape leaves, though moist and tender, are saturated in lemon juice. If you’re more adventurous, have dinner. There you’ll find many traditional meals (goat!) served with humble panache. And when the meal’s over and you take home leftovers, which will happen, they’ll serve as the reminder you need to go back soon. AARON FURMANEK.