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Portlanders longing for a simple, solid Greek meal out can finally celebrate. Tréla, which means “folly” or “craze” in Greek, began serving home-style Greek cuisine late last year in a corner storefront on the north flank of Mount Tabor. It is a passion project of the Tzakis brothers, whose family—as with many other Portland Greeks—has multigenerational connections to this part of town and the Greek Orthodox church nearby.
If your first impression of Tréla is that it looks a lot more like an average corner bar than a Greek restaurant, you are right on the mark. The stereotypical light blue and white theme is barely evident. The exterior is all black, yellow, and knotty pine. But for a large, vertically oriented street sign identifying Tréla, it could very well be a neighborhood pub, which is what it was most recently. Inside, fully half the space remains bar side with hardwood flooring and muted tones.
As if the enticing olive oil and oregano smells wafting through the entire room were not clue enough, however, one white wall in the other half is filled with family photographs. A bouzouki is mounted nearby just waiting to be plucked in celebration. With crowds of neighbors and visitors filling most seats most nights, it seems that a party could break out any time.
The main restraint on spontaneous dance and song is a menu full of homey delights from dips to desserts. The former ought to be a mandatory beginning, both for Greek cuisine novices and families who grew up eating the stuff. There are six dips to choose from ($9 each, with pita). The power move is to order a set of three, each filling a small bowl, which comes with two pita ($24).
The assertive cod roe-based tramasalata tops my list of favorites. It is creamy and fishy, but offers plenty of further flavor from jabs of lemon juice and olive oil. Next on the hit parade: melitzanosalata, a chunky eggplant dunk enhanced with garlic, lemon and, of course, olive oil. Think dairy-free baba ghanouj. For dip No. 3, why not try scordalia, which mainly comprises mashed potato and garlic bound together with olive oil, or classic yogurt-based tzatziki with cucumber, dill and yet more garlic?
One could easily make a meal of the dips alone. But there are other worthy mezze to try, such as the paper-thin slices of battered and fried zucchini called kolokithakia ($12), or another classic, calamari ($18), technically offered as an entree, but served just as easily as an appetizer. The bite-size pieces of squid offer a little crunch, a little chew, and an ample taste of the sea. Spanakopita ($16), two substantial spinach-and-feta-filled triangles of crunchy phyllo, is another traditional dish listed on the menu as “Greek street food,” which can pass as a good-sized appetizer or small entree.
If there is one must-order main dish on Tréla’s menu, it is the set of four luscious lamb chops, or paidakia ($37). They are marinated in a mixture of garlic, oregano, lemon and red wine vinegar, then grilled to a perfect dark pink medium-rare. These chops are plump, lamby and worthy of unabashed bone gnawing so as not to miss a single morsel. Lamb is offered too infrequently around town, and when it is, it rarely rises to these heights. Do not pass on this chance.
Other entrees suffer by comparison, but the whole sea bass, lavraki ($39), was still a win, if a touch overcooked. The bed of sautéed kale absorbed a supercharge of flavor from the fish and its topping of “Greek chimichurri.” But beware the little bones if your filleting skills aren’t quite up to snuff.
The pastitsio ($17) is yet another traditional home-style dish, the Greek answer to lasagna. Here, the cinnamon-enhanced meat sauce is sandwiched between a layer of tubular noodles and a thick topping of bechamel. The big baked square is a tummy stuffer, perhaps more starch than some might appreciate.
One might consider skipping over these other entrees and opting instead for a side or two. The orzo mizithra was excellent ($8), the football-shaped pasta cooked through and scented irresistibly with brown butter. The mizithra was barely noticeable, however. Lemon-roasted potatoes, patates lemonates ($9), were as billed and bountiful with just the right citrus accent. There are also salads to lighten the meat and carb load, including a classic horiatiki ($16): lettuce, tomato, feta, onion, olives and peppers.
On the dessert slate, the unrivaled finisher is traditional, housemade baklava ($6). Dark golden-baked phyllo, ground nuts, honey syrup, and spices are just right. “Choclava” ($6), on the other hand, is an unfortunate twist on the original.
Though there is room for Tréla to up its game, the many highlights—and mere presence in a city with a limited Greek food scene—are cause for euphoria. Opa!
TRY IT: Tréla, 6000 NE Glisan St., 503-954-2328, trelagreekkitchen.com. Dinner 4–10 pm Sunday–Monday and Wednesday–Thursday, 4-11 pm Friday–Saturday. Brunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm Saturday–Sunday.