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November 9th, 2011 CARRIE STURROCK | News Stories
 

A Trip From Bountiful

Buying from “community supported” farms groups is trendy and fun—until the food you paid for doesn’t show up.

YES, WE GOT NO TOMATOES: Michael Halstead is “completely soured” on community-supported agriculture after investing $860 this year in a farming operation that failed.
IMAGE: Natalie Behring

Anderson picked up her bucket at the Seven Corners New Seasons. The quantity of produce was small at first, but real signs of trouble appeared when Singer Hill gave vouchers for eggs, explaining that the hens were molting and half a flock had ended up as dinner for wild animals.

Michael Halstead was also happy at first. “Things went south a few weeks into it,” he says. “If we hassled them, we got our eggs.”

On July 11, Singer Hill sent an email explaining that Jessica Dean had been admitted to the hospital with pneumonia and asthma complications. The CSA also wrote that, after it dropped off food in weekly buckets, subscribers were taking eggs, meat and cheese that didn’t belong to them.

In August, Singer Hill emailed members to say the CSA wouldn’t deliver produce that week—members had to drive to Milwaukie and pick up their shares. On Sept. 5, the Deans abruptly shut down Singer Hill, telling its members they should have known the risks when they bought into the CSA at the beginning of the season.

“You, as a member, investing in CSA, are sharing the risk of producing food on a relatively micro, ecologically-friendly scale,” the email read. “If our crops are lost due to a wind storm or a failed water pump/hose, fungal disease etc. well, that’s it.”

But the Deans’ email also acknowledged Singer Hill had simply run out of money, in part because members who hadn’t paid in full in advance quit paying after they became dissatisfied with the results.

“Undoubtedly, we made amateurish errors in budgeting so tightly,” the Deans wrote. “We are so deeply sorry and regretful to be ending the season early, it is truly heartbreaking to us and has been one of the most difficult decisions we have ever had to make.”

No subscriber WW contacted has received a refund, but WW identified the farm that was to provide subscribers meat: Inspiration Plantation in Ridgefield, Wash. 

Co-owner Matt Schwab still has about $1,000 the Deans paid as a deposit on chicken, lamb and pig they had planned to have butchered. Inspiration Plantation didn’t see its full payments, he says, and the relationship with Singer Hill “almost brought us under.”

“I don’t think they were trying to be malicious,” Schwab says of the Deans. “I think they got in over their heads and made a series of bad decisions.”

(Schwab says he’s willing to provide some food to Singer Hill investors who bought shares of meat. He says they should write him at inspirationplantation@gmail.com.)

Strengthening the local food economy involves encouraging and supporting young new farmers. But running a CSA is an advanced level of farming that isn’t for beginners, says Erin Barnett, director of LocalHarvest.org, a website that helps promote CSAs, farmers markets and small family farms throughout the country.

“To create a plan that you are going to plant in succession the right amount of food in the right variety to be harvestable on a schedule that provides a weekly basket that’s not too little or too much requires a high level of skill,” she says.

Barnett estimates the country has about 6,000 CSA farms, up from an estimated 600 in 1996. Her organization hears from two to 10 CSAs a year that have run into trouble, although she says there are clearly more.

She encourages people to understand the risks before they sign up with a CSA—and to weigh why they’re motivated to invest. If it’s largely to help support local agriculture, she says, consider investing in a new CSA. If you’re investing the family food budget, research the local options and go with a farm that’s tried and true.

Barnett says CSAs are seeing higher rates of turnover among their members compared with a few years ago. “There’s only so many people who are going to want the ‘I’ll take what you give me’ model of eating,” she says. “When CSAs offer more choice, I suspect retention rates will be higher.”

Halstead isn’t going that route again. 

“I’m completely soured on the idea of CSAs,” he says. “We experienced the dark side of the equation.”


 


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