Smallwares: Restaurant Guide 2014

Smallwares
By AP KRYZA

4605 NE Fremont St., 971-229-0995, smallwarespdx.com

[INAUTHENTIC ASIAN] Johanna Ware's playfully weird takes on classic Asian fare aren't like anyone else's in town. Since opening her doors in 2012, the Momofuku alum has been widely lauded, and for good reason: Each of the small plates emerging from her tightly regimented kitchen explodes with unlikely flavors. The key to the playfulness is in the "inauthentic" approach, which allows Ware to send out happy-hour bao ($4) with the consistency of pretzels, or nontraditional dan dan noodles ($13)—the heartiest item on the menu and probably the only one that can serve as a meal by itself—that send bursts of peanut and pork flavor careening across the palate. Sure, sometimes those flavors can be a bit too intense—our otherwise perfect hanger steak with red miso had enough salt to give a deer a stroke—and portions on dishes like pickled halibut ($10) are sparse, but who cares? Sit down, play roulette with the menu, and prepare to turn your mouth into a playground. AP KRYZA

Pro tip:

If Smallwares is closed, hit up the adjoining Barwares for the best late-night food in Northeast Portland, including the incredible chicken lollipops ($2 each) and fried kale with candied bacon ($9).

5-10 pm daily. $$-$$$.

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