412 NW 5th Ave., 564-2739, pintsbrewing.com. 11:30 am-11 pm Monday-Saturday, noon-9 pm Sunday.
Tiny 3.5-barrel Pints is in its own way a giant. Alan
Taylor, a German-trained brewer and Widmer vet, took over as brewmaster
in May 2013 and has slowly been bringing his Teutonic sensibilities to
the fore. Oddly isolated in an off-drag stretch of Old Town, the cozy
brewpub serves pleasant bar fare and always carries a handful of beers
that eschew the local hop and malt crop for German varietals. This means
the Helles Hefeweizen has those wild banana esters you find in Bavaria,
and is matched by none in Oregon except Heater Allen. The altbier is
also amazingly faithful to form, malty and bitter and full of clove.
Really, Taylor is a brewer in uncommon control of his craft. Each Pints
bartender is allowed to assist on seasonal batches made from their own
fever dreams to varying effect, and some of the old blonds or IPAs
remain, but it's best to stick to the old German styles.
Happy hour: 3-6 pm and after 9 pm Monday-Saturday, Sunday all day. Food specials. $1 off beers.
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