Beast

After six years, the biggest change at Naomi Pomeroy's prix-fixe dinners is the price. It's now $102 per person, and another $48 for wine pairings. So why not do brunch this year? At $45, it's cheaper than the wine at dinner.

You don't get the foie gras bonbon again, but you also don't have to stand in line. This is a civilized establishment, and as such, one makes a reservation, then shows up at the appointed time to be seated at a long, wide, family-style table. Like dinner, the menu is set and no decisions are required beyond the question of whether you want wine pairings ($25, you do).

So sit and enjoy whatever the kitchen decides to send your way: Beast's brunch menu is "decided on the fly" and influenced by what's available at the market.

Cross your fingers for the delightful clafoutis, baked into a ramekin with a crunchy sweet slice of maple-glazed bacon perched atop the whipped creme fraiche. And try to save room for the beautiful bête noire that finishes the meal and presents a solid case for the virtues of a proper dessert with your breakfast.

Photo: Hilary Sander

Pro Tip: Get the wine pairing!

GO: 5425 NE 30th Ave., 841-6968, beastpdx.com. Dinner 6 pm and 8:45 pm Wednesday-Saturday, 7 pm Sunday; brunch 10 am and noon Sunday. $$$$.

Willamette Week