Beast

After six years, the biggest change at Naomi Pomeroy's prix-fixe dinners is the price. It's now $102 per person, and another $48 for wine pairings. So why not do brunch this year? At $45, it's cheaper than the wine at dinner.

You don't get the foie gras bonbon again, but you also don't have to stand in line. This is a civilized establishment, and as such, one makes a reservation, then shows up at the appointed time to be seated at a long, wide, family-style table. Like dinner, the menu is set and no decisions are required beyond the question of whether you want wine pairings ($25, you do).

So sit and enjoy whatever the kitchen decides to send your way: Beast's brunch menu is "decided on the fly" and influenced by what's available at the market.

Cross your fingers for the delightful clafoutis, baked into a ramekin with a crunchy sweet slice of maple-glazed bacon perched atop the whipped creme fraiche. And try to save room for the beautiful bête noire that finishes the meal and presents a solid case for the virtues of a proper dessert with your breakfast.

Photo: Hilary Sander

Photo: Hilary Sander

Pro Tip: Get the wine pairing!

GO: 5425 NE 30th Ave., 841-6968, beastpdx.com. Dinner 6 pm and 8:45 pm Wednesday-Saturday, 7 pm Sunday; brunch 10 am and noon Sunday. $$$$.

Willamette Week

Lizzy Acker

Lizzy Acker is Willamette Week's former web editor. Her first book, Monster Party, came out in 2010. She was born in Oregon, lived in San Francisco for almost eight years and then moved back to Oregon, just like everyone always knew she would.

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