5328 N Lombard St., 503-285-7150, fishwiferestaurant.com. Lunch-dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Fishwife's interior may resemble an unassuming beachfront shack and the cooking may be pretty uncomplicated, but everything from fish and chips ($13.50-$29) to fine dining courses is prepared with fresh-caught Pacific Northwest seafood and simply shines. $$-$$$.