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7955 N Lombard St., 503-894-9096, gabagoolpdx.com. Lunch-dinner daily.
Established in 2013, Gabagool's mission was to subvert the notion that high-quality Italian food had to come with fussy formalities and big price tags. Six years later, there's still hand-rolled pasta made with fresh, local ingredients every day. The menu always has something surprising, as do the well-stocked wine and cocktail lists. $$-$$$.