6903 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-232-4447, kaysbarpdx.com.
Adapting with its Sellwood clientele for more than 80 years, Kay's Bar went from swank night spot for the newly bustling community to faded lounge serving blue-haired day drinkers and slumming Reedies. James Dickey supposedly wrote Deliverance from Kay's stools, which probably explains the banjo-playing hillbilly on the back wall's mural. New ownership updated the menu and expanded the floor plan while wisely preserving the iconic entrance.