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There are two schools of thought when it comes to choosing a place to stay on vacation:
1. Find the cheapest, halfway decent spot in the most convenient location. You’re not going to spend that much time in your room anyway.
2. Where you lay your head at night is an essential part of your destination. That doesn’t have to mean spendy, but it does mean something more than keeping the lights on for you.
When it comes to spending a night along the Columbia, consider the second school.
All prices are subject to change.
River Lodge & Cabins, Boardman
6 Marine Drive, 541-481-6800, riverlodgeandcabins.com. $134+.
They don’t call it the River Lodge for nothing. Fronting the water, the lodge features an inviting lobby, a grand stone fireplace, friendly staff, table games, outdoor pool, hot tub, and a full-service restaurant, Two Barrels Taps and Grill. If you can, spring for one of the charming cabins just steps from the water’s edge, cleverly designed for privacy and river views. The river is especially wide and glassy here, ideal for floating, wading, and boating. The Columbia River Heritage Trail (a scenic paved bike and walking path) runs through town and leads to Sail Board Beach, a paddleboarding park. Check out Burnt Field Brewing, located in a renovated 1916 train depot, serving brick oven pizza, and the food cart pod on the southside of I-84 (try El Salvadoreño’s tacos). Boardman is making a play as a weekend destination. River Lodge is the place to stay.
The Society Hotel Bingen
210 Cedar St., 509-774-4437, thesocietyhotel.com/bingen. $48+ for a bunk, $149+ for a queen with shared bath, $349+ for a double queen cabin.
There’s a room here for everyone. The hostel-style bunk compartments, stacked three beds high, are fun and extremely affordable. The property was once a school, and the rooms (with shared bath) are named and decorated after school subjects like Music, Art, Science, and History. Or splurge on a cabin with a private patio and hammock. All accommodations include access to the airy bathhouse with three pools, a sauna, and a menu of spa treatments. You can gather at the long tables in The Society’s lounge where there’s plenty of room for board games and catching up. The adjoining cafe serves light food and strong drinks—both caffeinated and adult—all day long. There’s also a peaceful sanctuary space set into the hillside.
Hotel Iconica, White Salmon
119 W Jewett Blvd., 509-519-4266, hoteliconica.com. $117+.
Opened in 2023, this modern marvel rising high in downtown White Salmon is the creation of local hero Tao Berman, who holds several world records in whitewater kayaking. After retiring from professional sport at 31, he turned his energy to promoting his hometown. His apartment hotel has no lobby and contactless check-in, so privacy is maximized. Some of the suites have majestic views of Mount Hood. All have full kitchen facilities, but you may not need them. The Iconica’s prime location means you’re just two blocks from an array of tempting food and drink. The small plates at the wine shop Soča are highly recommended.
Hotel Stevenson
7 SW Russell Ave., 509-219-5009, hotelstevenson.com. $171+.
Built in 1909 to serve railroad employees as the Colonial Hotel, Hotel Stevenson offers cozy, vintage allure with modern and luxurious conveniences. Located in the center of Stevenson, Wash.’s shopping district, the hotel was fully restored in 2020 but retains a historic atmosphere. You’re three blocks from the railway, so agree in advance to find the rattle of passing trains thrilling. You’re also a few blocks from the water’s edge where Stevenson Landing boasts a pier, trails, and swimming beach. Many of the individually decorated rooms have incredible Gorge views. There’s a sweet little parlor for coffee and chat. Sample local wines, cider, and brews at the in-house 77 Cork & Tap Bistro, paired with food that makes the most of the Gorge’s bounty.
Skamania Lodge, Stevenson
1131 SW Skamania Lodge Way, 509-314-4177, skamania.com. $177+.
There’s so much to do at Skamania that you could spend your whole vacation here and never leave the property. Perched on a bluff with a splendid view, this 175-acre resort has something for everyone: ziplining, hiking, golf, tennis, basketball, or just communing with nature. There are three restaurants on the property, an indoor pool, a sauna, a spa, and a network of hiking trails. Skamania’s most recent addition brings glamping to the wooded property, with a heavy emphasis on the glam—king-sized beds, soaking tubs, private fire pits. Guests who eschew the standard rooms may also relive their ideal childhood in one of the amazing treehouses.
Cascade Motel, Cascade Locks
300 Forest Lane, 541-374-8750, cascadelocksmotel.com. $115+.
Established in 1947, this is the only original motor court still operating in the Gorge, and it’s a welcome blast from the past. Family owned and operated, the motel is a bit past the main drag of Cascade Locks, which means it’s quiet. Individually designed cottages (one decked out by one of the family’s daughters as a high school project) have quaint charm and plenty of space to relax. Popular with friends and relatives of Pacific Crest Trail hikers (the trail runs through town) and outdoor enthusiasts from around the world, the motel has generous outdoor gathering spaces and barbecue areas. The friendly owners know everyone and everything in Cascade Locks and can recommend brewpubs, bike paths, sailing lessons, or wildflower hikes, as well as fill you in on town news and gossip.
Kalama Harbor Lodge
215 N Hendrickson Drive, 360-673-6970, mcmenamins.com. $225+.
Facing the river, a few steps from the sand, the spacious Kalama Harbor Lodge was designed to honor the Hawaiian heritage of John Kalama, and mirrors the historic Pioneer Inn in Lahaina, Maui, which was tragically destroyed in last summer’s fire. And it looks right out of an Elvis Presley surf flick. Many rooms have river views, all have private baths and balconies. McMenamins specializes in making on-property pub hopping a valid sport. This place is no exception. You can move from the top floor Cloud Bar to the wrap-around patio, or Ahles Point Cabin, just down the riverfront.
Astoria Crest Motel
5366 Leif Erikson Drive, 503-325-3141, astoriacrestmotel.com. $119.
It’s challenging to find an affordable, locally owned, family-friendly option for an Astoria overnight. Open since 1952, the Astoria Crest is perched high on nearly 3 acres, affording expansive views of the Columbia River, the historic waterfront, and the soaring Astoria bridge. The 39 rooms are clean and comfortable, some are pet friendly. You’reabout 3 miles from the plentiful delights of downtown Astoria, but you’ll be tempted back to the Crest’s peaceful ambience to watch the river flow.
Salt Hotel, Ilwaco
147 Howerton Ave., 360-642-7258, salt-hotel.com. $119+.
Cross the magnificent Astoria-Megler Bridge to make your way to the village of Ilwaco, Wash. The Port of Ilwaco hosts a bustling Saturday Market during summer months and that’s one reason to stay at this family- and dog-friendly hotel. It stands at the water’s edge, in front of the busy docks, in view of Cape Disappointment State Park, and near the exceptional 8-mile Discovery Bike Trail that runs along the Long Beach Peninsula. The owners were inspired by this quote from Isak Dinesen: “The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears, or the sea.” They bought the run-down Harbor Lights motel in 2015 and transformed it into an inviting getaway. Take them up on surf lessons, hiking tips or beachcombing suggestions for Waikiki Beach. Or you can spend the day lounging in your comfortable bed. The Salt Pub serves casual, delicious, locally inspired food and drink with a port view.
Highlights of the Columbia River Cruise
American Cruise Lines, 800-460-4518, americancruiselines.com. $2,640+.
If you think cruises mean giant floating behemoths, multilevel pools, and second-rate comedians, prepare to be surprised by the riverboat cruises operated by American Cruise Lines. Its select fleet of small, well-appointed ships ply the Columbia, each carrying between 110 and 180 passengers. The shortest trip is a six-day, five-night round-trip tour from Portland that makes stops in Astoria, Kalama, and Stevenson. Longer cruises travel to Richland, Wash., before veering onto the Snake River toward Hells Canyon. You’ll never see the same thing whether you’re admiring the view from your cabin or one of the comfortable gathering spaces.
This story is part of Oregon Summer Magazine, Willamette Week’s annual guide to the summer months, this year focused along the Columbia River. It is free and can be found all over Portland beginning Monday, July 1st, 2024. Find a copy at one of the locations noted on this map before they all get picked up! Read more from Oregon Summer magazine online here.
