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This is a market town.
The home base of Fred Meyer long before it was acquired by Kroger; New Seasons before Good Food Holdings came along; Basics before recently being bought by Market of Choice.
Let’s go back further—Portland’s produce row in the early 20th century, birthing places like Gatto & Sons and the late Sheridan Fruit Company. There’s other ghosts in town too, like Wm. Landauer Groceries from 1891; you can spot the market’s restored painted sign at Southeast 30th Avenue and Stark Street.
And you know what? Over a century later, the market scene is still going strong. Here at Willamette Week, we’ve put together our very first Pantry Companion. It’s a magazine that offers a select guide of edible (and nonedible) goods found around the city to illuminate your kitchen cupboards.
“Maybe we’re the grocery capital of the United States,” Kaie Wellman, owner of Providore Fine Foods, tells me. Your mileage may vary, especially if you live on the eastern edges of the city and have to gas up for a WinCo run. Still, she might be onto something—this city is ripe with specialty market delights. We scaled the city to find vegan cassava soft serve, mushroom-based Bolognese in the cold case, a market devoted to beautiful, bold fruit, and as many spices as we could find.
We missed things—we tried to err on the smaller side (Fubonn, we still love you), we didn’t get to fish markets (go to the fish-and-chips window at Portland Fish Market), and we didn’t include co-ops or farmers markets (its own tome). We praise them and we’ll praise them again, but not in this tiny guide.
Before you head to the market to stock your pantry, you need to be equipped with proper tools to prep, make and plate your goods. We’ve rounded up everything from Portland-made knives to hand-thrown porcelain dishes, and we’ve included tips on how to take care of your goods from the experts.
OK, enough from us—go explore the capital, and bring your reusable bags.
This story is part of Pantry Companion, our guide to filling your kitchen cupboards. Pantry Companion is a small magazine, distributed free throughout Portland. Find out where to get yours by checking this map.
